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'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain

Ecotextile Talks

Release Date: 07/25/2025

Fanning the flames of textile incineration. A good or a bad thing? show art Fanning the flames of textile incineration. A good or a bad thing?

Ecotextile Talks

Textile sustainability strategist Shivam Gusain argues that the recycling sector has made incineration into a type of all-purpose villain, where the real barriers to recycling are much more practical. Our latest episode fans the flames around textile and clothing incineration and asks whether the textile recycling sector is too quick to blame incineration as the 'bad guy' when the bigger challenge is to build practical recycling capacity amid current waste management and climate pressures. Speaking to host Philip Berman, Gusain says the industry conversation is too focused on incineration...

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  In this exclusive interview, Philip Berman talks to Harsh Saini, the outgoing interim CEO of Cascale, to explore the organization's bold new chapter. Following a strategic rebrand and the implementation of a new governance structure, Cascale is evolving to meet the complex challenges of the modern consumer goods industry. Harsh discusses the "unfinished business" of sustainability and how Cascale is empowering its members to move beyond measurement into meaningful, large-scale action. From the acquisition of the Better Buying Institute to the launch of the Manufacturer’s...

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Ecotextile Talks

What's really inside that bargain fashion buy? Or that cheap new World Cup soccer strip? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Steve Lamar, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), to discuss the results of new lab tests on counterfeit products, with some quite disturbing findings. He's not just talking about fake logos, but chemicals at unsafe levels and online marketplaces that may know more than they're letting on. Steve also shares what the industry is doing to fight back, and whether it's enough. This episode is...

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In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we go inside the development of Lenzing's newest TENCEL™ Lyocell innovation - HV100 - a fibre engineered to deliver the texture, drape and authentic wash-down character of cotton which was created in record-breaking time!  Johnny Truong and Julia Ulrich, from Lenzing, walk host Philip Berman through the market signals that they say sparked the idea, the technical hurdles of getting it into production, and why this fibre is opening doors for lyocell in denim's most coveted position - the warp.  This podcast is brought to you in a paid...

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Ecotextile Talks

At the moment, organic cotton farmers in countries such as India and Pakistan earn an average of just $1000 a year. Meanwhile, premiums are stacking up through the supply chain, brands are charging more at retail, but the people actually growing the crop see only a fraction of the value. In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Bart Vollaard from the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) about why he believes the current premium model isn't delivering for the farmers it's supposed to support, and reveals OCA's ambitious to change that. They discuss how a pioneering new...

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Ecotextile Talks

In this episode Ecotextile Talks host speaks with Chief Strategy Officer about the company’s “” model, from white-lable branded resale shops to multi-brand clean-out schemes that can turn underused wardrobes into store credit. They discuss what the real driver is for consumers, how ThredUp’s distribution centres work at scale, why brands decide to plug into this infrastructure than trying to build it themselves.​ Circularity, policy and impact They also discuss what happens to the garments that do not sell, ThredUp’s aftermarket partners, and what % of items entering its...

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Can Cleaner Chemistry Save Fashion – and Nature? show art Can Cleaner Chemistry Save Fashion – and Nature?

Ecotextile Talks

Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Frank Michel, CEO of the ZDHC Foundation, about why he thinks cleaner chemistry is becoming a hard ESG requirement rather than a nice-to-have for the global textile value chain. They explore how ZDHC has evolved from its original Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) focus into a broader nature-impact lens that links process chemistry to water quality, biodiversity, climate, and investor risk. Frank explains the thinking behind ZDHC’s new impact framework, developed with environmental consultancy Quantis, which uses lifecycle assessment...

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Ecotextile Talks

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Trump, Tariffs and US Textiles show art Trump, Tariffs and US Textiles

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman talks to , President and CEO of the , about the impact of Trump’s tariffs on US textile manufacturing.  Kim discusses the challenges posed by tariff unpredictability, including the effects on investment and supply chains, and the winners and losers in the industry.  She highlights issues in machinery sourcing, the effect of high tariff rates on synthetics, and the role of major trade agreements like USMCA and CAFTA. Kim also addresses reshoring opportunities, and the strategic need for policy certainty to strengthen domestic production.      

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Ecotextile Talks

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More Episodes

While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation.

Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation.

He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and applying levies are deeply political acts.

The full article “Carbon taxes will halt textile sector progress” features in our August 2025 print edition – out today – and is available here on our digital platform for premium members.

You can read the full story in print or online, while at the same time supporting the work that we do to improve the environmental and social profile of our industry, by becoming a member of our global community.

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