Winterizing Your Boat

Episode 12:  In this episode, Molley and Chad are joined again by their friends Nancy and Steve Bailey.  They are going to talk about getting your boat ready for the winter.  It’s depressing, but extremely important.

Each brand and type of boat is different, so this episode may not cover everything for your particular craft, but there are some common steps to be considered as you get ready for winter.  Today, well discuss inboard/outboard motors, v-hulls, inboard v-drives and pontoons.

Molley recommends power washing the carpet/floor and putting a really good coat of vinyl conditioner on all of the seats.  The conditioner will add a good layer of protection during the cold months.  You should also wash and wax the outside of the boat to get rid of any stains or water lines.  Again, waxing it is just another way of protecting your investment until the Spring.

DIY or Pay a Guy

There are some things you may be able to handle on your own.  But if you’re new to boating, don’t be afraid to pay a mechanic to properly winterize your boat.  Chad comments that his old Evinrude 150, 2-stroke motor was pretty simple to handle.  The lower unit didn’t really need maintenance until you hit roughly 300 hours.  The dealer generally handles the lower unit maintenance.

Molley discusses how the risk to an outboard motor is not running the motor for long periods of time.  It’s not the cold temperature that’s dangerous to it.  Periodic running, even during the winter, can help to maintain the motor and prolong its life. 

Steve mentions how his son uses his bass boat all year long, so the only thing he does to winterize the boat is to lower the engine all the way down to let the water drain out.  Chad mentions it’s the same for his Mercury.

Chad’s 6.2 wake boat is big enough that they take it to a marine mechanic in Jamestown and they service the boat for him. 

Steve handle the winterization on their current boat.  The newer motor is a closed cooling system which doesn’t use water to inside the engine block itself.  This style has several, drain plugs that can be easily removed.  For the most part, you’re good to go.  Older motors have a different system and may require a mechanic.

The spark plugs should be removed and the cylinders should be spray fogged to avoid rusting. 

Pro-Tip:  If you have ballast tanks, those also need to be drained.  This is especially important with wake boats.  Steve recommends using a shop-vac to remove the water via the drain holes.

Pro-Tip:  Many boater change the oil each season.  If you change it at the beginning of the season, you’ll be able to pull out the fogging oil from the winterization process.  Changing the oil during winterization really just contaminates the new oil.

A previous podcast episode dealt with personalizing your boat.  When you are getting ready to put away the boat, there may be some other maintenance to address.  Chad recommends checking the lights on your boat and trailer.  This is also a good time to check the tires, wheels and hubs. 

Pro-Tip:  Steve recommends keeping a laser thermometer in the glove box, so you can check to see if one of your trailer hubs is getting hotter than the others.  This could be a sign of a pending failure.  If you can deal with it before it happens, you’re in much better shape.

Bearings tend to blow up in the Spring because the water may stay inside the hubs and expand during the cold winter months, or early in the season. 

Failing to Properly Winterize Your Boat

Molley asks what could happen if you don’t take the time to prepare your boat for winter storage?  It’s a roll of the dice.  You might be okay if we have a mild winter, but if it snows and gets really code, you’re probably going to have problems with your engine block, the lower unit or some component or piece of equipment. 

Chad recommends putting the battery on a trickle charge to extend the life of the battery.  It may take a charge, but it won’t last nearly as long.

What about the Fuel?

Steve always makes sure he fills the tank completely to avoid condensation.  Then he adds a little fuel-stabilizer.  Be sure to remember to run the engine so the stabilizer can disperse throughout the engine.

Chad advises that if you’re using Muffs to service your boat, the hose doesn’t have enough PSI to protect you motor.  You’ll probably burn it up at higher RPMs.  You should let it idle for a while.

End of the Season

Well, as the boating season comes to a close, so does Season 1 of our podcast.  However, this doesn’t mean we’re done for the winter.  We’ve already planned some trips to warmer climates and even the Miami boat show for a little podcast material research!

One Final Question Before We Go

What’s first thing you start to miss once you’ve put the boat away for the season?  Chad says it’s watching the sunset over the dam.  Nancy misses the sun and all the fun summer brings.  Steve misses getting away from normal life or that early morning wake boat run on glass water.  For Molley, it’s getting away and letting the decompression start for the weekend or the time they’re going to spend at the lake. 

That’s a wrap for this episode.  We hope you found it helpful, insightful and maybe a little entertaining. 

Thanks for Listening!

If you enjoyed this podcast, please consider sharing it with your friends.  We hope to see you out there soon.  Until next time, here’s to warm weather and calm waters!

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