Black Explorers 3: Adventures at the Mammoth Caves

Hello and welcome to rememberinghistory.com where we are remembering history and we’re making it. I’m Robin, the founder and host of this great and groundbreaking podcast show. I would also say that this is an historic show—yes, I know it’s about history—but it is historic because we are discussing, learning and being inspired by people who have been forgotten by history. In this series, we’re focusing on Black explorers.

 

Remember in the first show of this series, we discussed William Sheppard who was born a poor boy in the southern United States but became one of the greatest explorers in the Congo, learned the Kuba language, gained the respect of the Bakuba people and became one of the world’s first human rights activists. He alerted the world to the horrible treatment and atrocities (remember the severed hands?) suffered by the Congolese resulting from the Belgian rubber trade. William Sheppard also became one of the first collectors of African art. In the second podcast show, we discussed Black women explorers and met Barbara Hillary who skied to both the North and South poles—oh, did I forget to mention that she did these amazing feats when she was in her 70s?! And we cannot forget Saray Khumalo who has already summited Mount Kilimanjaro (the highest peak in Africa) and Mount Elbrus in Russia. She has her sights set on Mount Everest but was stopped twice by natural disasters, both of which she was lucky to survive. But she so wisely noted that “We all have our everests.” And that’s why this podcast series is so important. We all do have our own everests to face. What is your Everest?

 

The explorers in today’s podcast also had their everests—though it wasn’t going high in the sky, it was going deep into the earth. But, of course, I know that you that Everest is not high or low, near or far. It’s within us. Within each an every one of us.

 

Still, today’s show is slightly different in the explorer series. Okay, I admit that each show is unique. We will still focus on Black explorers but in this podcast show, we will focus on Black explorers and guides at one place: Mammoth Caves in Kentucky. Why am I making this change? Why am I focusing only on Mammoth caves?

 

There are good reasons for this. I promise.

 

 

 

1. The Mammoth Caves are a very special place on this planet. The Mammoth caves are the longest known cave system in the world. There are more than 400 miles of vast chambers and complex passages. And it is twice as long as the second longest cave system, which is found in Mexico. New discoveries and connections add several miles to the cave system every year. The Mammoth Caves in the Mammoth Cave National Park are a World Heritage Site and an international Biosphere Reserve. You will see that much of the discoveries there are due to the work of the courageous and determined Black explorers and guides in the caves , which were described by Stephen Bishop (whom we’ll meet very soon) as a “grand, gloomy and peculiar” place.

 

2. The Mammoth Caves are important for another, perhaps surprising reason. The stories of the African Americans (both enslaved and free) who came to live and work at the Mammoth Caves showed a lot about the society and times in which they lived. It showed the difficulties, the struggles and the discrimination. But it also showed the triumphs, the courage and the great skills of both the enslaved and free people at the Caves. You’ll get more details about this, and get the heartwarming stories and the frustrating stories at the Mammoth caves throughout this podcast. The caves really were a microcosm of the society and racial conditions at the time.

 

So, I would like to get started with this third and final show this month about Black explorers, this time in the Mammoth Caves in Kentucky.

 

Of course, though, we have a bit of housekeeping to do. I’ll make it quick so we can get straight to the show. At the end of the show, I’ll tell you about the exciting and inspirational podcast shows for next month.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ll just remind you that you can get additional information about the explorers in this podcast series at the Remembering History Podcast page on Facebook. You’ll find a fun and friendly group of historians who love to be inspired and who love to discuss history. So, join the conversation. And feel free to discuss whatever interests you. This is an open forum for discussion and everyone is welcome. Also, you can find great books, DVDs and other educational resources about these great explorers at rememberinghistory.com website, at the Books & Stuff store. I have personally vetted all these resources so you can trust them. Or you can complain directly to me. I believe in accountability. You can’t find it in many places on the Internet, but you can find it here. I’m gonna stop here because I’m anxious to get to the real deal of this final podcast show on Black explorers. Remember that there is important information at the end of the show about next month’s wiki history podcast series.

 

Without further ado…

 

Let’s begin with arguably the greatest explorer of the Mammoth Caves: Stephen Bishop! Because of his great work, skill, and dedication, Stephen Bishop is without question one of the greatest explorers of the grand, gloomy and peculiar Mammoth Caves. And you’re gonna see why!

 

Bishop came to the Mammoth caves in 1838. He was African American, 17 years old and enslaved. Slavery was still legal in Kentucky and many other states. Remember slavery wasn’t abolished until 1865, some 27 years later. Yet because of his great exploration and guiding skills, he did enjoy some freedoms and privileges in the Mammoth caves—and avoided the grueling physical work and suffering endured by other slaves. In fact, he was first introduced to the Mammoth caves by a white explorer. This developed Bishop’s love of exploration—and he spent the next two decades exploring the Mammoth caves.

 

Although he was introduced to the caves by other explorers, Stephen Bishop went far beyond those explored and toured areas. Bishop discovered miles of new routes that no human eye had ever seen. And he opened the gateway for modern exploration of these vast and incredible caves.

 

Yes, he made history: Stephen Bishop was the first to cross the “Bottomless Pit” which was a series of deep vertical shafts. Other explorers had stopped at the Bottomless Pit, refusing to cross over that dangerous abyss. Quite understandable but Bishop was not scared or stopped. He continued past the Bottomless Pit and into areas that had been completely unexplored. And he later safely guided others over the Bottomless Pit and into new regions of the caves. Bishop also explored and guided others into areas of the Mammoth Caves called Fat Man’s Misery (I can only guess why it was given that name!), Cleveland Avenue and the Mammoth Domes. Those are some of the most famous areas of the caves, made famous and popular by Stephen Bishop.

 

He absolutely loved the Mammoth caves and had a real drive for exploration. Still it was hard work and he crawled through tight winding passageways, discovered an underground river, scaled huge rocks, and dared to walk on a rickety nature-made ladder across the "Bottomless Pit."

 

In 1856, Stephen Bishop received his freedom but unfortunately died the following year at the young age of 37. He left behind his wife, Charlotte, and son, Thomas. His cause of death remains a mystery but he is buried in the Old Guides’ Cemetery at Mammoth Caves National Park. Personally, I love visiting cemeteries because there is so much history and so many personal stories found there. So, if you visit the Mammoth caves, I think that visiting the Old Guides’ Cemetery would be an interesting and moving “exploration” and a great way to honor this great explorer.

 

And, by the way, I do want to mention that Stephen Bishop had many other talents that enhanced his abilities as an explorer and guide. He was also widely known as a great speaker, an excellent orator, a gifted singer and a natural showman. He brought his love of the caves to each visitor and brought the caves to life for everyone who dared to enter them.

 

Stephen Bishop might have been born into slavery, but he was never a slave. He was an explorer! And today he is a legend!

 

 

 

Another Black explorer who came to the Mammoth caves in 1838 was Nick Bransford. However, Bransford didn’t become a full-time explorer for nearly 20 years after moving to the caves. He started full-time guiding in 1857, after the death of Stephen Bishop.

 

Nick Bransford was an enslaved person (born during the period of slavery). Like Bishop, he was leased out and sent to the Mammoth caves to work. And interestingly there were records showing that he was valued at $800, which was substantially more than for other enslaved persons. This was most likely because of his skills as an explorer and guide.

 

Nick Bransford was a different kind of guide and explorer than Stephen Bishop. And he was also highly respected and trusted to lead people into the deep and dark caverns and the areas explored by Bishop. One visitor to the Mammoth Caves described him by saying, “He seemed thoroughly imbued with the spirit of the place in which he had spent the greater portion of his time for 17 years. He was as grave and taciturn as some cave-keeping hermit. During our inward progress, he had carefully pointed out every place and object of interest. If I paused or made a misstep, he instantly looked around.”

 

Bransford later purchased his freedom by selling eyeless fish from the caves. Yes, there were fish in the underground rivers who didn’t have eyes. And visitors were keen to buy them. Bransford was also known as a caring and giving man. He donated the land for the Mammoth Cave School where many Black children (including his grandchildren) learned to read and write. And he was one of the first deacons of the Pleasant Union Baptist church, which was located in the park.

 

Nick Bransford continued to work as an explorer and guide at the Mammoth caves until his death in 1895. He had devoted more than 50 years of his life to guiding and exploring. Unfortunately, his exact gravesite remains unknown today.

 

Many of slaves or former slaves came to Mammoth caves for similar reasons and had similar experiences. Yet everyone also had a unique experience.

 

 

 

 

Take Ed Bishop for example. No relation to Stephen Bishop. He came to the Mammoth caves in 1886. The slave period was over so he was free, he had not been leased to the cave owners like Nick Bransford and Stephen Bishop. But he quickly became a well-known and respected explorer as well as an integral part of the guiding force.

 

Among his greatest achievements was to guide the German cartographer, Max Kamper, into the Mammoth Caves. For 8 months, he and Kamper remained at the cave, visiting all the known sections. But Ed Bishop also discovered new sections that he presented to Max Kamper. One such newly discovered point (located on the Violet City Lantern route) was named Bishop’s Pit in 1908, in honor of Ed Bishop. Together Bishop and Kamper produced a map representing more than 35 miles of passages in the cave. Ed Bishop was widely recognized for his knowledge of the cave and as a teacher for the guides. Someone wrote: “The real guide was Ed Bishop. He instructed Hunt how to reach the New Discovery from the Cathedral Dome route and Hunt instructed Bob Lively. But during 1916 and 1917, it was always necessary to wait for Bishop to make the trip.”

 

Ed Bishop and his wife, Josie, later moved to Indiana where he died. Today, Ed and Josie Bishop (as well as their baby girl Chancey) are buried beneath a large cedar tree near the cave. Yes, there is a headstone (which was donated recently by cave guides). It would be wonderful to locate this headstone and see where this great guide and explorer was finally laid to rest.

 

Another explorer and guide who came to the caves after slavery was Ed Hawkins. No, not Ed Bishop whom we just discussed but Ed Hawkins. And he has a unique and interesting story too.

 

Although he was an explorer and guide, he didn’t take on this role exclusively like many of the others. Ed Hawkins also worked as a laborer on the privately owned Mammoth cave estates. In addition to exploring and guiding, he also did structural repairs, chopping wood and plucking chickens. But guiding and exploring were definitely his first loves and his greatest skills. Unfortunately, those skills were not valued by the owners of the caves.

 

 

 

Yes, slavery had been abolished but African Americans were still in a difficult position and treated as lower class citizens. Jobs and other opportunities were quite limited for Black people, particularly in the southern U.S. states like Kentucky. In those states, Blacks could have jobs as porters or waiters. In contrast, whites could have higher paying and more prestigious jobs like clerks or managers. And this severely limited Ed Hawkins’s opportunities at the Mammoth caves.

 

There was a story that Ed Hawkins had arranged and organized an exploration for himself and as a guide for a group. However, the manager at the cave forced him to cancel and abandon the exploration because he needed Hawkins stay at work and peel potatoes that day! One can only imagine how Ed Hawkins felt, how devastated that must have been for him.

 

Despite the difficulties, Ed Hawkins discovered a monumental series of vertical shafts. The passage leading up to these incredible shafts was later named Hawkins Pass. A great honor to this great explorer. And, yes, visitors can still see these shafts. Just take the Wild Caves Tour!

 

Ed Hawkins died in 1936. He is buried at Western State Hospital cemetery in Kentucky. Unfortunately, he was buried in an unmarked grave. But anyone who wants to show honor and respect for Ed Hawkins can visit the Mammoth caves and take the Wild Caves tour to see Hawkins Pass.

 

I just want to mention one unique characteristic of Ed Hawkins, which is actually more personal. He was known always to secure his clothes with large blanket pins. They actually look like giant clothespins. And they make Ed Hawkins very distinguishable in pictures. You can find a picture of him on the Remembering History Podcast Page. Please go there and take a look to see this great explorer!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another Black explorer and guide at the Mammoth caves was also a multi-skilled, multi-talented person. Before coming to the Mammoth caves, Will Garvin was a private in the army, serving in a Colored Troop during the Civil War. Will Garvin was never an enslaved person. Following the war, he began exploring and guiding in Mammoth caves where he made his mark for discovering an area later call the Corkscrew. This was actually a maze through collapsed rubble that linked the upper levels of the cave system to the lower levels near the water table. This area also provided an exit from the cave so visitors wouldn’t have to retrace their steps.

 

Some people say that Will Garvin also discovered the Colossal Caverns. This area was so treacherous that it even wasn’t opened to the public until 1972 (some 70 years after its discovery). It is one of the caves still protected within Mammoth Cave National Park.

 

But Will Garvin also made another important discovery—or had an important experience. This is really interesting.

 

He was the first person to experience the optical illusion called the Statue of Martha Washington. As he was exiting the cave, he saw a spectral silhouette of a woman who looked just like Martha Washington! I know strange things can be seen in the caves but this was one of the strangest! And it is still occasionally seen on certain tours in the historic section!

 

Will Garvin died in the early 1900s, survived by his wife Hannah. The place of his burial remains unknown.

 

Stay tuned for more information on this optical illusion.

 

Finally, we come to Matt Bransford, who was neither an explorer nor a guide into the Mammoth caves. But he was an exceptional businessman who filled a niche that supported the work of the black explorers and guides. His work and vision puts him right up there with those history makers; he was truly a legend and an important part of the guiding and exploration work. And his story gives us more insight into the life and experiences of Blacks in the southern United States.

 

 

You might remember from Ed Hawkins’ experience, segregation in jobs and housing existed after the abolition of slavery. (Of course, we know that it continued until the 1950s and 1960s.) However, among guides, segregation wasn’t practiced. But outside the caves, black visitors did face segregation. Blacks were not allowed to be on the same tours with whites or stay in the same hotels as white visitors. Matt Bransford (who was the grandson of one of the original guides and explorers, Materson Bransford, who was an enslaved person) had travelled around the country, encouraging Blacks to visit the world famous Mammoth caves. But when Black visitors did come to the caves, they were faced with the problem of segregation.

 

What did Matt Bransford do?

 

He started special tours for African Americans into the Mammoth caves. Matt and his wife, Zemmie provided lodging and meals at their home for Black visitors. They later started a hotel called the Bransford Resort. It was the first place and time in Mammoth cave history that the African American community could experience the same comforts and fascination of the cave that white visitors had experienced for more than a century!

 

The Black community started visiting and enjoying Mammoth caves in large numbers. And they heard and kept alive stories of the Black explorers and guides like Stephen Bishop, Nick Bransford, Ed Hawkins and many others. These explorers became legends around the world!

 

So, Matts Bransford was not an explorer but his vision and contribution were essential to the African American experience and discoveries at the Mammoth caves.

 

This really shows that everyone has something to contribute. Everyone can make a difference. Whether it is by exploring the caves, providing tours in the caves or providing housing and food for people at the caves—everyone can make a difference!

 

 

 

 

 

So, this wraps up our great and groundbreaking podcast series on Black explorers. I hope that you have enjoyed it as much as I have. And I also hope that you have also felt inspired by their courage, their determination and their never-give-up attitude. They faced their everests—sometimes with fear, sometimes without it—but they faced their inner Everest and emerged victorious. They emerged as legends.

 

Are you ready to face your Everest?

 

By the way, the optical illusion experienced by * (and still experienced by visitors to the cave) was actually caused by the reflection of light from an approaching tour casting its lights upon the bends of the cave avenue.

 

As promised, I’ll give you a sneak peek into the next podcast series. Remember that we actually have two podcast series going right now. In our long-term podcast series, we focus on the Black educators. In the next podcast show, we will focus exclusively on Black educators who are men. I decided that it was time to show that women are not the only great educators, but that men have been and still are serving as teachers, mentors, coaches and role models for children of all backgrounds. They should be recognized and they will be in the next podcast show on Black educators. Stay tuned. In the second podcast show, we will honor and recognize African Americans in the military. The Black men and women who have served their country and are continuing to serve their country are often overlooked, even forgotten. But we will recognize them and I know that their stories will inspire us all. Stay tuned for that show. Both are coming soon.

 

Lot’s of great stuff coming so I look forward to seeing you at rememberinghistory.com where we are remembering history and we’re making it.

 

Bye for now.