The best books about Paris... according to a beloved bookseller in Paris
The Earful Tower: Paris
Meet Penelope Fletcher, who runs two Paris bookshops, side by side near the Luxembourg Gardens. The shops: The Red Wheelbarrow and The Red Balloon The Red Balloon is just for children's books, and is almost certainly the most likely of all shops in Paris to have all our own children's books. Addresses: 9-11 Rue de Médicis, 75006. This episode is from The Earful Tower podcast archives. Here are all the books that Penelope mentioned, in order: Books for adults Stories from the Magic Canoe of Wa'xaid, by Cecil Paul. A Moveable Feast, by Ernest Hemingway. Selected...
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This man turned one Paris street into a food and drink hub
The Earful Tower: Paris
Meet Loïc Estimbre, a Parisian entrepreneur who is behind four different eateries on just one street in the 12th arrondissement. That street: rue Emilio Castelar. In this podcast episode, we talk food in Paris, the 12th district in general, and the challenges of funding four separate spots. As for Loic, I met him when he was behind the counter at the Magic Carpet cafe and was surprised to see him literally building a new eatery down the road. Imagine my surprise to learn that he leading a team that was behind half the places on this little street. ...
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Paris's specialty coffee boom: Can it last?
The Earful Tower: Paris
This week on the show it's Guy Griffin, the owner of Cafe Mericourt in the 11th arrondissement. He talks about the current explosion of speciality coffee shops across Paris and whether it is sustainable. He also takes us behind the beans... er, scenes... about the change in tipping culture, the challenges of being an entrepreneur in France, and the cost of hiring people in France compared to the US or Australia. As for you - why not go in for lunch as a savvy diner. Look at his ever-changing menu : Find Cafe Mericourt on Instagram :...
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Louvre robbery: We were inside the Apollo Gallery for the break-in
The Earful Tower: Paris
This week on The Earful Tower podcast it's Jake and Holly Barker, two American tourists who were actually inside the Louvre's Apollo Gallery when it was broken into on Sunday. I met them in the Marais to record their dramatic story. "When we heard the saws, we both knew that something serious had happened." It's reported that nine items from the crown jewel collection were taken from the Louvre. Also featured in this episode was Amber Minogue, our Louvre tour guide. Please get in touch to book a tour with her. The music in this episode was from...
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Interior design: How to add Paris flair to your home
The Earful Tower: Paris
This week on the show it's Cléophée Poli - aka Cléo - a Parisienne interior designer. She talks about typical Paris apartments and what she likes about them, how you can make your home more Parisian, and the small touches to improve the feeling of any home. And of course, we talk about a lot more. Follow her on Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/cleointeriordesign/ Explore her website : https://www.cleointeriordesign.com The music in this episode is from Pres Maxson. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. From $10 a month you can...
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We're making a new children's book: Here's how we do it
The Earful Tower: Paris
We're making our fifth children's book, and it's the most Parisian one yet. In fact, there are some major changes to this one, so we decided to open the curtain and show you how we do them. Lina talks about her illustrating process and I talk about how I wrote this one - and why I changed the whole style. You can find our other four children's books in all the Anglophone bookshops of Paris, but also in le Peloton cafe, the Ile Aux Fees boutique, the Bon Marché department store, and Messy Nessy's cabinet of curiosities. Also the Louvre museum and the musée d'Orsay....
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Bistros to boulevards: How Paris was shaped by its World Fairs
The Earful Tower: Paris
Meet Charles Pappas - Mr World Fair. Charles likes nothing more in the world than a Universal Exhibition, especially if it's one of the seven that were hosted in Paris. In fact, he's written the book on the topic. I met him on a road-side terrace at Harvest cafe in the 11th arrondissement to talk Paris, Haussmann, coffee, and of course, World Fairs. His new book is: , a historical guidebook on how these World Expos, held between 1855-1937, transformed the city of Paris forever. The music in this episode is from Pres Maxson. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from...
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My love letter to the Parisian food markets
The Earful Tower: Paris
After an eventful visit to the Aligre markets in the 12th arrondissement, I came home to share my love of the French food markets with my wife Lina. Here's an energetic, honest, and in-the-moment recount of what happened when I went shopping for dinner ingredients. The music in this episode is from Pres Maxson, his take on the classic Sous le ciel de Paris. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. From $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated...
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Meet the woman behind the top cooking classes in Paris
The Earful Tower: Paris
Meet Jane Bertch, a Chicagoan who has called Paris home since 2005. She started her life here as a banker, but made the unusual pivot to running a cooking class (which is now the hugely popular La Cuisine Paris). And now, she has written a memoir about it all: The French Ingredient. She joined me in the studio to talk about the book, how to make a croissant, and even how to make a croissant class (plus a whole lot more). Follow La Cuisine on and follow Jane herself . Book a cooking class at And follow the And of course, find the book: The...
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New Paris museum to open in iconic setting
The Earful Tower: Paris
This summer, the city of Paris announced plans to open a museum to showcase the work of architect Hector Guimard. He is the man behind the iconic Paris Metro entrances, several Art Nouveau buildings in Paris, and some very beautiful furniture and decorations in museum displays around the world. And better still: The museum will be housed in one of the very few buildings remaining in Paris that Guimard designed himself (The Hotel Mezzara in the 16th arrondissement). I've been a fan of Guimard and Art Nouveau for years, so let's take a deeper dive into the topic in general, with...
info_outlineLet's visit the Louvre with author Elaine Sciolino. Today, we chat about her upcoming book Adventures in the Louvre: How to Fall in Love with the World’s Greatest Museum. The book pulls back the curtain on a building many think they know, but which still contains endless secrets and untold stories.
And if you think you recognise Elaine’s name and voice, perhaps you heard her on the pod before! Elaine, the former Paris bureau chief for The New York Times, has featured The Earful Tower in the past discussing her books about the Seine River and the Rue des Martyrs. In fact, she was the second-ever guest on the show, back in 2017.
Elaine used her extensive experience as a reporter to influence how she wrote this book. She decided the best approach was to explain the Louvre museum “through the prism of someone who’s not an art historian and who’s not a tour guide. I decided to just report the Louvre and talk to everybody that I possibly could.”
And, my goodness, the surprises Elaine uncovered will knock your socks off: spending the day with the museum’s permanent on-site fire fighters, a secret World War Two bunker and long-forgotten graffiti inscribed by the builders of the Philippe Auguste wall.
For Louvre novices who are in danger of having an exhausting and frustrating experience trying to see and do everything, Elaine offers this advice “Find your Louvre identity, find what kind of a visitor you are… And once you decide that it makes it a lot easier, because you forgive yourself for not being perfect…You go each time with a different identity, like you go each time and discover a different work of art.”
Elaine confesses that she wasn’t always the biggest fan of the museum, “the Louvre is a challenge, it’s too big…it’s too crowded, it’s an impossible museum. You have to find your way in. So that’s what I tried to do.” Having visited the building hundreds of times in the course of writing the book, I wondered if Elaine was all Louvre-d out or did she intend to go back? “Oh no, I have to go back. I have to keep going back.”
Adventures in the Louvre: How to Fall in Love with the World’s Greatest Museum is released on 1 April 2025. You can pre-order it here.
A fun extra the end of the episode, Bertrand d’Aleman from My Private Paris tells us about a current exhibition at the museum: The Louvre Couture. This is an exploration of how the vast breadth of decorative art contained within the walls of the museum has informed the world of high fashion. The Louvre Couture exhibition runs from 24 January - 21 July. Book your tickets here.
Artwork mentioned in this episode: Mona Lisa (also known as La Joconde) by Leonardo da Vinci; Man with a glove by Titian, Portrait of a Man (also known as La Condottiere) by Antonello da Messina; The death of Marat by Jacques-Louis David. Thanks to Hannah Coyle for additional reporting.
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This season of The Earful Tower is brought to you by My Private Paris, an award-winning travel company creating deluxe itineraries for Paris and beyond. See what they offer here and be sure to let them know that you came from The Earful Tower.