Episode 212 Part 2 Inside Appraiser Jo Ellen Cole’s Extensive Jewelry Library
Release Date: 11/17/2023
Episode 225: In Memory of Sharon Berman: How Her Passion Fueled the Jewelry Journey Podcast
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Sharon’s own jewelry journey began and how her family is preserving her exceptional collection. Who Sharon considers her most memorable guests and which insights stuck with her over the years. What prompted Sharon to travel the world to study jewelry, and what she learned during her decades of studying the art form. Sharon’s tips for new podcasters on how to create a show with longevity. How you can share your memories of Sharon and continue to connect with the Jewelry Journey community. About Sharon Berman Sharon Berman is managing principal of...
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Episode 224 Part 2: How Jennifer Merchant Continues the Tradition of Op Art in her Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: Jennifer’s unique process of layering acrylic and art images, and how she discovered her signature technique. Why the most important thing a young artist can do is find their voice. Why Jennifer rarely uses images her customers request in her jewelry. How Jennifer’s work ties into the history of pop and op art. Why Jennifer sees other art jewelers as inspiration, not competition. About Jennifer Merchant: Jennifer Merchant is a studio t based in Minneapolis, MN. She graduated with a BFA in Metals and Jewelry from the Savannah College of Art and Design....
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Episode 224 Part 1: How Jennifer Merchant Continues the Tradition of Op Art in her Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: Jennifer’s unique process of layering acrylic and art images, and how she discovered her signature technique. Why the most important thing a young artist can do is find their voice. Why Jennifer rarely uses images her customers request in her jewelry. How Jennifer’s work ties into the history of pop and op art. Why Jennifer sees other art jewelers as inspiration, not competition. About Jennifer Merchant: Jennifer Merchant is a studio t based in Minneapolis, MN. She graduated with a BFA in Metals and Jewelry from the Savannah College of Art and Design....
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Episode 223 Part 2: How Gabriela Sierra Made the Jump from Packaging Design to Jewelry Design
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Gabriela produces jewelry in Mexico, manages her business from Montreal, and sells her jewelry worldwide. Gabriela’s favorite stone to work with, and how she chooses and sources gems for her colorful jewelry. How moving from Mexico to Canada (and experiencing seasons for the first time) influenced Gabriela’s work. What it means for jewelry to be slow made. Why COVID prompted Gabriela to transition from packaging design to jewelry design, and how she overcame her hesitation to call herself a jewelry maker. About Gabriela Sierra Gaby, designer and...
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Episode 223 Part 1: How Gabriela Sierra Made the Jump from Packaging Design to Jewelry Design
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Gabriela produces jewelry in Mexico, manages her business from Montreal, and sells her jewelry worldwide. Gabriela’s favorite stone to work with, and how she chooses and sources gems for her colorful jewelry. How moving from Mexico to Canada (and experiencing seasons for the first time) influenced Gabriela’s work. What it means for jewelry to be slow made. Why COVID prompted Gabriela to transition from packaging design to jewelry design, and how she overcame her hesitation to call herself a jewelry maker. About Gabriela Sierra Gaby, designer and...
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Episode 222 Part 2: How Terhi Tolvanen Captures Nature in Her Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Terhi’s work changed as she moved from Finland to Amsterdam to France How the weather influenced Terhi’s recent exhibition at Ornamentum Gallery How jewelry can help us explore the relationship between man and nature Why Terhi creates her work on a mannequin, and how she lets materials tell her what they want to be Why love is the most important thing an artist can put in their work About Terhi Tolvanen Currently based in the French countryside, Terhi Tolvanen was born in Helsinki, Finland (1968). Following studies at the Lahti Design...
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Episode 222 Part 1: How Terhi Tolvanen Captures Nature in Her Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Terhi’s work changed as she moved from Finland to Amsterdam to France How the weather influenced Terhi’s recent exhibition at Ornamentum Gallery How jewelry can help us explore the relationship between man and nature Why Terhi creates her work on a mannequin, and how she lets materials tell her what they want to be Why love is the most important thing an artist can put in their work About Terhi Tolvanen Currently based in the French countryside, Terhi Tolvanen was born in Helsinki, Finland (1968). Following studies at the Lahti Design...
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Episode 221 Part 2: Suzanne Martinez’s Tips for Finding the Best Quality Antique Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How to use Antique Jewelry University to identify maker’s marks and find out when your jewelry was made. Why access to more (and better) information has made interest in antique jewelry explode. What characteristics Suzanne looks for when evaluating antique jewelry. Why buyers should beware of lab-grown diamonds in vintage jewelry. Why modern diamonds and manufacturing techniques can’t compare to the materials and skills used by jewelers in the past. About Suzanne Martinez Suzanne Martinez is the co-owner of Lang Antiques, a San Francisco-based shop...
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Episode 221 Part 1: Suzanne Martinez’s Tips for Finding the Best Quality Antique Jewelry
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: How to use Antique Jewelry University to identify maker’s marks and find out when your jewelry was made. Why access to more (and better) information has made interest in antique jewelry explode. What characteristics Suzanne looks for when evaluating antique jewelry. Why buyers should beware of lab-grown diamonds in vintage jewelry. Why modern diamonds and manufacturing techniques can’t compare to the materials and skills used by jewelers in the past. About Suzanne Martinez Suzanne Martinez is the co-owner of Lang Antiques, a San Francisco-based shop...
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Episode 220 Part 2: Secrets from a Jewelry Brand Strategist: How Lionel Geneste Gets Jewelry Brands on the Map
Jewelry Journey Podcast
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why working with jewelry designers is part business, part therapy. Why the jewelry industry is picking up its pace to match the fashion industry, and why this trend might backfire. Why customer feedback on comfort and wearability is essential for jewelry brands. How Lionel defines success for his jewelry clients. What caused so many fashion houses to develop fine jewelry lines in the last few years, and what this trend means for the industry. About Lionel Geneste Lionel Geneste is a fashion and luxury industry veteran, having worked for John Hardy,...
info_outlineWhat you’ll learn in this episode:
- Which essential jewelry books you should have in your library
- Why books are so much more reliable than internet research when it comes to gemstones and jewelry
- Why the Renaissance opened up a new world of adornment
- An overview of the periods of jewelry and how they overlapped and influenced one another
- How cultural turning points, like World War II and the South African diamond rush, influenced what materials were used during different time periods
About Jo Ellen Cole
Jo Ellen Cole is the owner of Cole Appraisal Services and the director of fine jewelry at Abell Auctions. She earned her Graduate Gemologist Diploma at the Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica and successfully passed the prestigious Gemological Association of Great Britain’s FGA examinations.
Additional resources:
Gemological and Jewelry Books for a Professional Library:
GEMOLOGICAL IDENTIFICATION BOOKS
Gemstones: Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification, Webster, Robert
Gem Testing, Anderson, Basil
Handbook of Gemstone Identification, Liddicoat Jr., Richard T.
Gem and Ornamental Materials of Organic Origin, Pedersen, Maggie Campbell
Gemstones of the World, Schumann, Walter
Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vols. 1, 2 and 3, Gubelin, Edward and Koivula, John
Color Encyclopedia of Gemstones, Arem, Joel
The Spectroscope and Gemmology, Anderson, Basil and Payne, James, edited by Mitchell, R. Keith
GENERAL REFERENCE
Gemology, An Annotated Bibliography, Sinkankas, John
The Complete Handbook for Gemstone Weight Estimation, Carmona, Charles
Dictionary of Gems and Gemology, Shipley, Robert
The Jewelers Manual, Liddicoat Jr., Richard T. and Copeland, Lawrence L.
Gemstone and Mineral Data Book, Sinkankas, John
DIAMONDS
Diamonds, Bruton, Eric
Diamond Cutting: Complete Guide to Cutting Diamonds, Watermeyer, Basil
Famous Diamonds, Balfour, Ian
Hardness 10, Vleeschdrager, Eddy
Diamond Handbook, Newman, Renee
Laboratory Grown Diamonds, Simic, Dusan and Deljanin, Branko
Fluorescence as a Tool for Diamond Origin Identification – A Guide, Chapman, John, Deljanin, Branko and Spyromilios, George
PEARLS
Book of the Pearl, Kunz, George F. and Stevenson, Charles Hugh
Pearls, Strack, Elizabeth
Beyond Price, Donkin, R.A.
JADE
Jade, A Gemmologist’s Guide, Hughes, Richard
Jade For You, Ng, John Y. and Root, Edmund
COLORED STONES
Ruby and Sapphire, Hughes, Richard
Emerald and Other Beryls, Sinkankas, John
Opal Identification and Value, Downing, Paul
JEWELRY HISTORY
Brilliant Effects, Pointon, Marcia
Understanding Jewelry, Bennett, David, and Mascetti, Daniella
Jewelry in America, Fales, Margha Gandy
Victorian Jewellery, Flowers, Margaret
Transcript:
In appraiser Jo Ellen Cole’s opinion, the best thing a jewelry lover can have is a well-stocked library. Information on gems and jewelry abounds online today, but much of that information is incorrect. For that reason, Jo Ellen—a Graduate Gemologist who also passed Gem-A’s FGA examination—turns to books when she has a question about a specific piece, hallmark or stone. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to share which books she recommends for every jewelry interest; how jewelry trends shifted over the years due to cultural forces; and how to quickly identify the characteristics of different jewelry periods. Read the episode transcript here.