Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast
Chalk Talk is a climbing industry podcast. A place to find interesting and enlightening discussions with professionals in the rock climbing industry. In depth conversations with route setters, coaches, professional climbers, gym managers/owners and much more. Chalk Talk is the place to find inspiration and contemplation on the future of the climbing world and where to take your climbing to the next level.
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Ep.27 w/ Josh Larson "Living the Dream"
03/16/2015
Ep.27 w/ Josh Larson "Living the Dream"
On quarter-life crisis', how he is preparing for the upcoming World Cup circuit, and his recent bouldering trip to Puerto Rico Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes Show Notes for the episode with Josh Larson: How he left climbing for a 'real job' and realized that it was no life for him The journey from 4 years of no climbing to pulling V13 What drives him to compete in climbing competitions How his IFSC World Cup experience in Toronto last year helped him to succeed in Vail The difference in experience and ability of the competitors from ABS Open to World Cups His competition strategy for success His plans for attending all five World Cups this year in 4 countries How he is preparing to be on the top of his game And his recent trip to Puerto Rico to climb on and develop boulders Related Links and Sponsors for Josh Larson: Josh Larson's website - Videos featuring Josh Larson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Takl Climbing Podcast on iTunes!
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Ep. 26 w/ Phil Bridgers of The Red Rock Rendezvous
03/04/2015
Ep. 26 w/ Phil Bridgers of The Red Rock Rendezvous
On the origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous, what to expect, and why events like this are so important to the climbing community... Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! The Red Rock Rendezvous is one of the nation's largest climbing festivals. During the 3 day event, climbers of all abilities can take clinics from top athletes in the sport. Phil Bridgers is the event coordinator and deals with just about every aspect of this event directly. In this episode, he shares his experience and hopes for the coming Red Rock Rendezvous on March 27th-29th, 2015. Show Notes for the episode with Red Rock Rendezvous: The origins of the Red Rock Rendezvous Why Paul Fish of Mountain Gear and Dennis Gafvert of The North Face wanted to create a climbing festival An explanation of the festivities at the RRR: Clinics, Food, Beer, Music, etc... How they are monitoring the festival's impact on the area and minimizing any negative repercussions The athletes and climbers teaching the clinics include: Hans Florine, Alex Johnson, Chris Schulte, Peter Croft, and more How to plan your weekend if you are attending And which athlete can't stay out of the photo booth Related Links and Sponsors for Red Rock Rendezvous:
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Ep.25 w/ Paul Robinson "Making the Canvas Climbable"
02/14/2015
Ep.25 w/ Paul Robinson "Making the Canvas Climbable"
On frequent first ascents, what V16 really means, and plans for his biggest bouldering adventure yet! Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes Paul Robinson is one of the world's best boulderers. If you didn't know that already, you better get schooled because this guy has put down countless numbers of the world's hardest boulder problems. He has opened up bouldering areas and fought to push climbing's limits around the globe. In this episode, Paul Robinson discusses why he does it and what the future has in store for him. Show Notes for the episode with Paul Robinson: His trip and highlights from climbing in the Dirty South Traveling woes and excitement Why seeking and sending new lines is so important to him Gaining the vision to see new lines on unclimbed rock Putting down 50+ FA's last Summer in South Africa and all its future potential The responsibility and plight of the First Ascensionist to provide accurate grades and sweet names Why a lot of FA's tend to get downgraded Advice from Carlo Traversi on grading FA's Is V16 a thing yet? Thinking back on his most memorable sends The big trip he's planning that will result in total world domination (hint: South Africa, Australia, Europe, Oman, Bolivia, Argentina, China, Norway, Alaska, and on....and on... and...) Related Links and Sponsors* for Paul Robinson: Videos featuring Paul Robinson: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast on iTunes!
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Ep.24 w/ Don McGrath "Conquering the Vertical Mind"
02/07/2015
Ep.24 w/ Don McGrath "Conquering the Vertical Mind"
On the science of bad habits, fear and stress management on the wall, and training the brain game for the vertical world Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Don McGrath is a climber and author of Vertical Mind, 50 Athletes Over 50, The Five Climbing Mindsets, and his blog at Masterrockclimber.com. In his newest book, Vertical Mind, Don McGrath and his co-author Jeff Ellison seek to understand fear, doubt, and how to break the bad habits that we learn as climbers. There's a lot of science and research that went into this book and it is a great read for anyone looking to master their vertical mind. Show Notes for the episode with Don McGrath: What spurred his interest in training the brain for climbing How schemas and scripts write habit into our climbing How those habits can ultimately hurt us and hold us back How to create productive scripts in our climbing The fear of falling and the fear of failing Methods for dealing with fear Stress management on the wall How to recognize our own bad habits How to be a better climbing partner through 'co-creative coaching' How to coach significant others without ending up in the doghouse What exactly is a flow state and how to attain it Related Links and Sponsors for Don McGrath: Don's website and blog - The Vertical Mind book Vertical Mind
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Ep.23 w/ Dr. Lisa Erikson "Climbing Injuries Solved"
01/31/2015
Ep.23 w/ Dr. Lisa Erikson "Climbing Injuries Solved"
On how to diagnose, prevent, and recover properly from climbing's most notorious injuries, cross-training for climbing and its benefits, and researching a fledgling sport. Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Show Notes for episode with Climbing Injuries Solved: Why doctors default to telling you to "take time off" when you have an injury The anatomy and physiology of the parts we injure How safe climbing is compared to other popular sports How most injuries can be prevented before they become an issue Why some people get injured more than others What you can do beyond just 'listening to your body' to stay injury-free Self-care tools and how to use them How much you should rely on taping to heal or support injuries Diagnosing a pulley tear Cross training for climbing: yoga and CrossFit Tips for athletes competing in this week's upcoming ABS open and youth bouldering competition in Madison, Wisconsin Related Links and Products for Climbing Injuries Solved:
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Ep.22 w/ Alton Richardson "Telling a Story"
01/16/2015
Ep.22 w/ Alton Richardson "Telling a Story"
On Portrero Chico, climbing photography, and the freelance life. Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Alton Richardson is a badass. This guy rolls around with a camera and captures everything climbing. From shimmering sunsets over sexy crags to super sends from some of the sickest ascensionists, this guy captures it all. Whether it's still life or video, Alton Richardson is there and prepared. He has worked for RAB, La Sportiva, Climbing Magazine, and has even started his own regional climbing magazine for California. (It's pretty cool, too!) Listen to this episode to learn a bit about how Alton Richardson gets the shots that stir the pot and what he looks to accomplish with them! Show Notes for the episode with Alton Richardson: Starting California Climber, a quarterly magazine with co-founder Dean Flemming Being on assignment in Chattanooga, Tennessee as a photographer, videographer, and gear tester The freelance life How he manages his time as a freelancer and stays ahead of the game Planning shots Cultivating relationships with media outlets for future work Traveling on assignment to Potrero Chico, Mexico, and the tragedy that happened Techniques for shooting climbing What he likes photographing the most...and it's not what you think Related Links and Sponsors for Alton Richardson:
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Ep.21 w/ Bret Johnston "A Young Man's Profession"
01/08/2015
Ep.21 w/ Bret Johnston "A Young Man's Profession"
On routesetting as a growing career, what makes a good routesetter for commercial and competition routesetting, and the inevitable fate of career routesetters Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Bret Johnston grew up in climbing gyms. Before Bret was born, his father built the first climbing gym in America. It was called Vertical Club, est. 1987. It makes sense then that Bret would come to work most of his life in a climbing gym and, with routesetting piquing his interest, find a career working for one of the best climbing gym operators in the country. Bret Johnston is now the Director of Routesetting operations for all three of Planet Granite's gyms and manages 19 routesetters. Along with that, Bret sets for multiple events throughout the year including chief-ing this year's USAC Division1 competition in Reno, NV. Show Notes for the episode with Bret Johnston: Growing up in climbing gyms His new position as Director of Routesetting of Planet Granite Routesetting as a career in the expanding industry The importance of skilled routesetters in the climbing gym What makes a good routesetter Cultivating new talent Gym grades and setting on the softer side The fate of career routesetters What goes into planning a high-level competition The hardest part about setting competitions Advice for routesetters trying to get into professional-level competition routesetting
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Ep.20 w/ Dave Filkins "Building a Better Element"
12/28/2014
Ep.20 w/ Dave Filkins "Building a Better Element"
On hold shaping, moving from basement to business, and always trying to move Element Climbing into the future. Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Dave Filkins is the creator, original shaper, and owner of the ever-expanding Element Climbing. His hold company began in the basement of his house and grew until the space could no longer sustain what would eventually grow into Element Climbing. Since he moved out of that basement, Element Climbing has been growing and growing. David and his wife have since devoted their full attention to the growth and development of the hold company. David is set on making Element Holds a titan in the industry and is always looking for new ways to expand and innovate. In this episode, we get into how he took Element Climbing from basement to blockbuster and beyond. Show Notes for the episode with Dave Filkins of Element Climbing: How he stumbled into hold shaping Going from shaping holds in the basement to a full-blown company The pitfalls and mistakes of early shaping How he begins the process of shaping Making the jump from a basement business to a full-grown operation Building a successful company in a unique industry How to keep the inventory fresh in a sea of holds And the new innovations for Element Climbing Related Links for Element Climbing:
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Ep.19 w/ Dustin Sabo "Turning Projects into First Ascents"
02/02/2015
Ep.19 w/ Dustin Sabo "Turning Projects into First Ascents"
On the glory days of Bishop, developing in and around the Sierras, and how climbing has changed with age... Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Dustin Sabo is a good friend of mine. He basically taught me everything I know about climbing and routesetting. His efforts, however, extend far beyond what he has done for me alone. Dustin was a part of the growth of bouldering in Bishop, CA in the mid-'90s. During this time he nabbed the first ascent of many Bishop classics including Acid Wash (V10), Enter the Dragon (V10), Moon Raker (V9), and a handful of others. Dustin was also key in the development of Tahoe bouldering. Along with friends such as Brian Sweeney (Episode 3) and Ty Fairbairn, Dustin helped open up popular northern California destinations such as Castle Peak, The Sierra Buttes, and South Lake Tahoe. He has also set for ABS youth nationals and currently is the head routesetter and head coach at High Altitude Fitness located in Incline Village, Lake Tahoe, NV. *Also, just a little disclosure, this episode is explicit! It may not be suitable for impressionable minors who will be inspired to run away to far-off distant bouldering lands and listen to punk rock, drink, and send FA's. There may have been a little wine involved in the recording of this episode. It's a little rambly. I hope you enjoy it.* Show Notes for the episode with Dustin Sabo: How Dustin got into climbing Growing up in the era of Sierra sport climbing Learning from the likes of Dan Osman The growth of bouldering in the Bishop area First Ascent rivalries and the gentleman's clause that solved it The Advent of highballs and how it has changed the landscape of bouldering in Bishop The Legend of 'Enter the Dragon' (V10) Being a steward of climbing areas when there are so many people accessing them Developing Castle Peak, Tahoe, and the Sierra Buttes The responsibility of development How climbing has changed for him as he gets older
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Ep.18 w/ Emily Harrington "Testing the Limits"
12/15/2014
Ep.18 w/ Emily Harrington "Testing the Limits"
On Summiting Everest, traveling 300 miles overland to the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia, and learning to suffer... Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Emily Harrington is a climber for the North Face and La Sportiva. She has been climbing since she was a little girl and has since been a five-time National Champion, a two-time North American Champion, has podium-ed in multiple World Cup events, climbed Everest, and was part of a recent National Geographic expedition to Myanmar. Emily Harrington is one of those types of people who likes to get her hands in just about everything. She sport climbs, trad climbs, ice climbs, and alpines. It takes a lot of gusto to gun as hard as she does, and in this episode, we find out what is behind that tenacious drive and what Emily Harrington has planned for pushing her limits in the future. Show Notes for the episode with Emily Harrington: Her experience of summiting Mt Everest What it meant to her to ascend the highest peak on Earth The inspiration behind her most recent expedition to Myanmar to climb the highest peak in Southeast Asia The culture and landscape of modern Myanmar (Burma) How she prepared mentally and physically for the Myanmar expedition Avoiding venomous snakes Reaching the mountain and realizing she was in over her head. Coming within hundreds of meters of the summit and having to turn around Managing the fear Trying to master all of climbing's disciplines and beyond Training with Team of 2 Emily's Goals for next year...and they're beefy How she's preparing for those goals And her pursuits in becoming the next champion walker Related Links and Sponsors for Emily Harrington:
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Ep.17 w/ Daniel Luke "Taking the Lead"
12/10/2014
Ep.17 w/ Daniel Luke "Taking the Lead"
On the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Summary of the episode with Daniel Luke: Before the opening of their first gym in Atlanta, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and his business partner, Daron Pair, attended a youth national event. Being frustrated by the layout and organization of the venue, Daniel Luke and Daron Pair decided it was up to them to build a better gym. Stone Summit Atlanta opened in July of 2010 and two weeks later was host to the USAC SCS youth national competition. Since then, Stone Summit Atlanta has hosted every SCS youth national. Its layout is built for competition viewing, but it has been amazingly successful within the Atlanta community despite warnings from industry insiders claiming that the gym was overreaching its limits and would never be successful. This week, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit and Daron Pair will be opening their second location in Kennesaw, Ga. The gym has a greatly expanded bouldering terrain and an impressive wall design. In this interview, Daniel Luke of Stone Summit Climbing Gyms talks about the trials and tribulations of opening a climbing gym, how to follow your own dreams when there are naysayers, and what he has learned and changed on opening his second location. Show Notes for Daniel Luke: The costs of opening a climbing gym Frustrations with current gym designs were the inspiration behind opening Stone Summit What factored into picking the location The issue of funding a new climbing gym Understanding gym operation as a first-time gym owner The value of attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit and other industry conventions Stats on the second Stone Summit facility set to open this week What was learned by opening Atlanta and how those lessons were put into the design of the new gym The costs and benefits of hosting competitions and community-building events The biggest challenges faced when opening a new gym The growth of the climbing industry and the future of indoor climbing Related Links and Sponsors for Daniel Luke: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast on iTunes!
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Ep.16 w/ Julie Ellison "Keeping It Fresh"
11/18/2014
Ep.16 w/ Julie Ellison "Keeping It Fresh"
On Climbing Magazine, how stories get published, and what it takes to keep it fresh! Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Climbing Magazine has been around since 1970 and though Julie Ellison has only been involved for a handful of those years, as Senior Editor she takes her job very seriously. Well....not too seriously. Julie Ellison says that the whole idea behind Climbing Magazine is to make it fun and accessible. Climbing Magazine prides itself in being the standard of the industry when it comes to articles on climbing techniques, safety skills, training articles, and broad, captivating international features that can be enjoyed by climbers of all levels. Since the buy-out of Climbing Magazine by Active Interest Media some of its readers have been wary to accept the new design as a piece of corporate redesign and feel that it isn't run by climbers anymore. In this interview, Julie Ellison seeks to set the record straight and enlighten us as to just how much work goes into the magazine by climbers like herself. Show Notes for the episode with Julie Ellison: What they look for in stories from freelance writers and photographers How to submit stories and photos as a freelancer How Julie keeps the stories fresh The impact social media has had on Magazines and how they've adapted The buy-out of Climbing Magazine and how they've tried to remain a climber's magazine Her favorite climbing zones And how long print media can last in the digital world Related Links and Sponsors for Julie Ellison:
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Ep.10 w/ Ander Rockstad "In a Nutshell"
09/12/2024
Ep.10 w/ Ander Rockstad "In a Nutshell"
On training effectively when you can't climb, nutrition density, and the importance of grades. Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Show Notes for Ander Rockstad: His early travels to Africa, So. America, and Patagonia How a climbing video ignited his passion Why grades are relevant! Training in 20 hours of sunlight Maximizing his training while working on an oil field in Alaska How diet and nutrition have fueled his climbing Eating for nutrients instead of calories Creating A-balm Related Links and Sponsors for this episode with Ander Rockstad:
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Ep.9 w/ Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle (Part 2) "The Renaissance and the Future"
09/12/2024
Ep.9 w/ Ian Powell and Jackie Hueftle (Part 2) "The Renaissance and the Future"
On the history and future of the shaping industry, why he wants to strangle routesetters, and the rise of Kilter Grips! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! This is part 2 of a 2-part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. If you haven't yet, take the time to listen to part one of the series. Ian's rich, enigmatic narrative is worth the listen and it will catch you up to this episode. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves back into the history of starting eGrips with little to no money and elaborates on his visions for the future of the hold-shaping industry. Jackie does her best to keep him on track...no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90's. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Ian Powell began shaping for Straight Up holds with buddy Ty Foose. Eventually, Ian began eGrips and called on Ty to help him get the company up to speed. Wait...why am I telling you this? Just listen to the episode. Ian's more fun to listen to anyway. Show Notes on this episode with Ian Powell: Wherein Ian finally gets into the history of eGrips The introduction of polyurethane holds The hold-shaping renaissance of the 90's (featuring such classic shapers as: Ty Foose, Clark Shelk, Rob Mulligan, Louie Anderson, Mike Call, Mark Russo, Boone Speed, Tony Yaniro, and Ian Glass) The hopes and dreams for the future of the hold-shaping industry Why he sometimes wants to strangle routesetters And the future of hold shaping (featuring the new prodigies: Jason Kehl, Peter Juhl, Will Anglin) Design philosophy and economics And how Kilter is trying to innovate as a new company in a flooded market Related Links and Sponsors with Ian Powell: Rock and Ice article about Ian Powell Check out episode 8 - (Part 1) w/ Ian Powell Also, listen to episode 4 - w/ Jackie Hueftle
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Ep.8 w/ Ian Powell & Jackie Hueftle (Part 1) "You Gotta Free Yourself Up"
09/11/2024
Ep.8 w/ Ian Powell & Jackie Hueftle (Part 1) "You Gotta Free Yourself Up"
On his history of shaping, inspirations, and learning curves. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! This is part 1 of a 2 part series on Ian Powell and his company Kilter Grips. After enjoying this episode, make sure to find your way to part 2. It's just as exciting and smile inducing as the episode you're about to embark upon. Accompanied by his sales, marketing, and publicity manager, Jackie Hueftle, Ian Powell delves into his process of hold shaping and the origins of Kilter Grips. Jackie does her best to keep him on track...no promises. Ian has been a part of the climbing industry as a hold shaper since the early 90's. He was a driving force during an era of impressive growth for the climbing industry, a time when a boom of young, artistic climbers around the country began to shape holds like never before. This renaissance of hold shaping was the boom that brought the climbing industry holds that gym climbers are still fiending for 20 years later. Show Notes: Egrips, Straight Up holds, Ty Foose, and how Ian began shaping The origins of Kilter Grips His process of shaping and where his inspiration comes from Learning curves What's missing in the hold market The interrelationship between setting and hold shaping and lots of Ian's tangential qualities.... Related Links and Sponsors: Listen to episode 4 - w/ Jackie Hueftle
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Ep.7 w/ Louie Anderson "Still Learning"
09/11/2024
Ep.7 w/ Louie Anderson "Still Learning"
On hold shaping, gym ownership, and creating the world's first routesetting competition. Listen to the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! If you're looking for the renaissance man of climbing, look no further, Louie Anderson is a known freelance hold shaper, gym owner, routesetter, author, climbing wall designer, and social media community leader. He has written a book on the fundamentals of routesetting, and has authored a guidebook on climbing in the Santa Monica mountains. As a freelance hold shaper, Louie has greatly influenced the way that holds are imagined. He has shaped for over 20 different climbing hold companies including: ETCH, Climb It, SoIll, Rock Candy, and Kingdom, just to name a few. His shapes can vary from the basic, to the unique, to the realistic; varying in size from tiny, intricate footholds, to features as big as a small adult. And if shaping, routesetting, gym owning, putting up FA's, and authoring guide books and books on routesetting wasn't enough, Louie Anderson is also an active climbing wall designer and gym builder. He has been a part of the design and build of many of So. California's gyms and has recently helped with the design and construction of the new Refuge Climbing Center in Las Vegas, set to open in October. Louie is always seeking to advance climbing in whatever way he can. Just last year he was one of the minds that brought the Kingdom Games to fruition. The Kingdom Games is a new kind of competition, one that tests the skills of routesetters. The first emanation of the Kingdom Games happened at Louie's gym in So. California, The Factory. This year, the routesetting competition will be held at the Earth Treks Climbing Center in Rockville, Maryland on September 5th and 6th, and will be renamed the Setter Showdown. to learn how the Setter Showdown will work, what the judges will be looking for, and everything else Louie, pop in those earbuds and turn up the volume to Episode 7 of Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast. Show Notes: How he started shaping and setting before climbing gyms existed (think, freeway overpasses). The advent of So. Cal's first climbing gym and what it brought to the community. His first hold shapes and how that process has evolved. How he creates his shapes from conception to the final product. How he decides what shapes to sculpt. Hold ergonomics On the gym bubble and the sustainability of the rapid growth of the climbing industry. What he thinks it takes to stand out in a hold market that is saturated. The introduction, function, and future of routesetting competitions such as last year's Kingdom Games and the upcoming Setter Showdown in Earth Treks, Maryland. And what Louie hopes these setters games can teach us about the routesetting community. Related Links and Sponsors:
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Ep.5 w/ Justen Sjong "Training Your Mind, Breath, and Finding Success"
09/11/2024
Ep.5 w/ Justen Sjong "Training Your Mind, Breath, and Finding Success"
On breathing into balance, relaxing, and what it takes to break down personal barriers. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Justen Sjong has been training top-level climbers for over 20 years. This time as a coach, both for his clients and himself has given him vast insight into what it takes to push climbers of all skill sets to the limit. Justen and his partner Kris Peters began Team of 2, a training and coaching company not long ago, and have since trained some of the top athletes in climbing. They have trained climbers such as Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, and more. Though they have the tools to train these top-level athletes, many of their clients are beginners and driven weekend warriors who also want to seek improvement. In this episode, Justen and I talk about the mistakes that most climbers make when training, how far to push it and what causes injury, and his assessments of technique and how the average climber can assess themselves. Justen and Kris are always available for contact and ready to help climbers improve their performance. Just check out the links below. Show Notes with Justen Sjong: How he evaluates the weaknesses in a client's technique. Analyzing the four categories of strong technical assessment: Balance, Thought, Movement, and Rate of Use. The importance of breath on the wall. How, even if you don't live in Boulder, you can benefit from Team of 2's insight and programs. How even the high-end, professional athletes can find value in having a trainer and coach. How to move from 'maintenance days' to actual training days. What it really takes to achieve your goals. What's the line between pushing yourself to the limit and risking injury? The biggest mistakes climbers make while training and how to combat them. The importance of goals. How to assess yourself when training alone. Related Links and Sponsors for interview with Justen Sjong: Team of 2 webpage -
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Ep.4 w/ Jackie Hueftle "Setting, Comps, and Hueco Tanks"
09/11/2024
Ep.4 w/ Jackie Hueftle "Setting, Comps, and Hueco Tanks"
On the art and function of routesetting, Hueco, Kilter Grips, and much more. Listen to the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! I've known Jackie Hueftle for many years. She originally hails out of my hometown of Reno, NV, and grew up competing on the national level in youth climbing comps. Since then, Jackie has become a staple name in the climbing industry for anyone paying close attention. She is the head routesetter at The Spot bouldering gym in Boulder, CO, and the editor and author of The Spot's routesetting blog. The blog focuses on many aspects of the climbing industry including her up-to-date reporting of the international, world cup climbing circuit, climbing hold and product reviews, and other industry-relevant information. She has written for many publications including Rock and Ice and Dead Point Magazine, and continues to focus on feature stories for climbing's major media sources. Jackie also is a driving force behind the new and growing climbing hold company, Kilter Grips, created and designed by Ian Powell. She has also set for a handful of professional-level climbing competitions, and, in her free time, regularly wanders into fields of boulders to push her own limits on the rock. So, do yourself a favor and check out her episode. It's good! Show Notes: Choosing climbing life over law school. (Before you cover your kids' ears, Jackie did graduate with a degree in writing at CU Boulder). Finding a balance between art and function in routesetting. What makes The Spot,....the spot. Where are all the female routesetters? Americans in the international competition scene...or lack thereof. Hueco Tanks regulations and why they matter. And Kilter Grips. Related Links and Sponsors: Jackie's Instagram - Kilter Grips - Flashed Climbing - La Sportiva - Pro Climbers International - Lastly, check out the episodes and with Kilter owner and shaper, Ian Powell.
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Ep.2 w/ Josh Levin "Still Having Fun"
09/11/2024
Ep.2 w/ Josh Levin "Still Having Fun"
On moving beyond his youth career, the importance of mental training, and comps, comps, comps...oh, and outdoor climbing too. For those who don't know him, Josh Levin was a maniac in the youth competition circuit. He broke records and set the bar high for future competitors of all ages. Now that he has graduated from his overwhelmingly successful youth career, he continues to push his boundaries and expand his expertise. When Josh finished his youth career, he could boast an 18-time Youth National Champion (most in history), 30-time Youth National Team Member (most in history), undefeated Youth National Speed Champion from 2003-2012, 5-time Youth Continental Champion, and the North Face Young Gun Award Recipient. Those just being the tip of the iceberg. Since then, Josh has gone on to be a 10-time Open National Team Member and has represented the United States at 5 World Cups and 7 World Championships. Oh, and he also finds time to study Engineering at Northeastern University and attend more local comp series comps than you can count on your fingers including Dark Horse, Dominion Riverrock, and Ring of Fire. Oh, and last year he skipped three grades to send his project, Linin' Astro 5.14c, in Rumney, NH. Basically, he's out there killing it, and in this episode, we get to talking about what fuels his competitive spirit, what it was like moving beyond his youth career, and how important it is to keep having fun. Due to Josh's busy life, we had to record the episode via cell phone. Please forgive the poor quality of the recording. I promise that in the future I will catch up with Josh again to re-record with better quality and fresh insight. Enjoy!
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Ep. 0.5 (promo) - John Muse
09/11/2024
Ep. 0.5 (promo) - John Muse
This episode is the trailer to the mysteriously lost Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast - Episode 1. Maybe someday the full episode will magically appear again (as many of the lost episodes have). In the meantime, stay tuned as I hope to get John back on the podcast for an updated episode in the future.
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Ep.31 w/ JP Du Plessis "Children of the Rocklands"
05/12/2015
Ep.31 w/ JP Du Plessis "Children of the Rocklands"
On the effect that the climbing community has on the South African communities, starting a climbing school, and what you can do to help... Listen in the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! JP Du Plessis is a journalist from South Africa. He has been living on the De Pakhuys farm for a handful of years now at the base of many of the bouldering areas in the Rocklands. He watches as season after season, climbers flood the area and enjoy the bounty of bouldering the area has to offer. Now, JP DuPlessis tells us what sort of impact these climbers are having on the area. He has recently started a climbing school for the local children, many of whom are underprivileged in a huge way. JP DuPlessis is watching as climbing grows in the area and wants to foster the future through these young promising locals. Show Notes for the episode with JP Du Pleissis: A fantastic description of the Rocklands and the Cederberg Mountains. The lives of the local children and how the climbing community is impacting them The climbing school that JP and some other locals have started to get the kids out Trying to raise money to start a competitive youth climbing team in South Africa The positives and negatives of the impact of the climbing community
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Ep.30 w/ Aicacia Young of ClimbHealthy.com
04/15/2015
Ep.30 w/ Aicacia Young of ClimbHealthy.com
On the importance of an optimized diet for climbing success, supplements and nutrition bars, and when to say, 'yes!' to baby food... Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Aicacia Young is a registered dietician who has jumped through many-a hoops to get where she is now. Aicacia has carved out a little niche for herself as a dietician with an emphasis on the climbing lifestyle. Though Aicacia can diagnose and suggest diets for many ailments, her favorite is how to optimize the climber's diet for peak performance. She even went so far as to write a book on the subject, which can be purchased on her website . On ClimbHealthy.com Aicacia Young also writes regular articles on health and well-being. Show Notes for the episode with Aicacia Young: Will eating an optimized diet actually improve your climbing? Why diet is important after 30 Her path from traditional nutrition to a more specialized diet and nutrition Understanding the sport of climbing and the dietary needs of climbers How to assess if you need to cut certain foods out of your diet Wondering if Cliff Bars, Pro Bars, Lara Bars, etc. are worth eating at the crag? Did she say baby food?! And the verdict on alcohol... it's what you expect Related Links and Sponsors for Aicacia Young: Visit Acacia's website - Also, follow Aicacia Young on Instagram and Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep.29 w/ Mike Helt of Climbing Business Journal
04/06/2015
Ep.29 w/ Mike Helt of Climbing Business Journal
On the efforts of Climbing Business Journal, the growing statistics and economics of gyms, and the future of our industry... Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Mike Helt and Marlowe Kulley are the owners and administrators of Climbing Business Journal, the climbing industry's greatest news source. Through CBJ, they are culling information about the climbing industry in hopes of creating a database of facts and numbers that can help owners and future investors better understand the industry and where it is headed. Show Notes for episode with Climbing Business Journal: The short, but glorious life of Routesetter.com How trying to re-brand Routesetter.com gave birth to Climbing Business Journal Their attempts at creating a database of statistics for the climbing industry What trends American climbing gyms are seeing based on these statistics Climbing industry growth and how much the market can sustain Is climbing just a fad that is living in its heyday So just how many gyms are there in the U.S.? What's the industry's projected growth rate? Which business model works the best? (Co-op, bouldering, full service, etc.) What sort of population is necessary to support a climbing gym? What the closing rate for climbing gyms is in America And What the future holds for Climbing Business Journal Related Links and Sponsors for Climbing Business Journal: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep.28 w/ John Ellison "Climbers Against Cancer"
03/24/2015
Ep.28 w/ John Ellison "Climbers Against Cancer"
On receiving his diagnosis of terminal cancer, growing the Climbers Against Cancer charity, and attempting to build a legacy that will live on in the hands of climbers worldwide.... Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Show Notes for the episode with Climbers Against Cancer: John talks about his diagnosis of terminal cancer and the effect that had on him and his family His natural positivity and how it helps everyone around him cope How being open about his life with cancer helps friends and family feel more comfortable How helping to raise money for a charity led him to want to do more What it took to get the Climbers Against Cancer charity up and running The flood of support...and work that came with the charity's success Watching the community grow and why climbing is so special Why CAC has successfully donated to 7 different cancer charities in 7 different countries How to become involved on an individual level, as a company, or as a gym to help CAC The truth behind true happiness that John has learned Related Links and Sponsors for Climbers Against Cancer: Videos featuring Climbers Against Cancer: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep.15 - Alex Johnson "Putting On A Good Show"
02/02/2015
Ep.15 - Alex Johnson "Putting On A Good Show"
On tackling 'The Swarm' (V13/14), controversies of female first ascents, competition burnout, and doing what she loves every day. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Alex Johnson is a Five-Time US National Champion, Two-Time World Cup Gold Medalist and has climbed many hard boulder problems including the first female ascents of The Mystery (V12) Bishop, CA; Diaphanous Sea (V12) Hueco Tanks, Tx; Book of Nightmares (V12) Red Rocks, NV; Drive On (V11) Yosemite, Ca; and many more. In her whirlwind career, Alex Johnson has dominated competitions, faced competition burnout, recovered from depression, and rediscovered her love for climbing on the rocks. Alex Johnson takes time in this interview to share her insights and tell her stories. Show Notes for Alex Johnson: Putting on a good show for events The beta on climbing in Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada Last year's attempts at taking down The Swarm (V13/14) How she's training and preparing to attack The Swarm this coming season The Mandala controversy and culture of downgrading after female ascents Why first female ascents hold weight for Alex On pint-sized crushers and allowing them to compete in adult categories Her competitive career and burning out Related Links and Sponsors for the episode with Alex Johnson: More sponsors: Pro-Tec Athletics, Smith Optics, Nicros Climbing Wall Systems, Organic, J-Tree Skincare, Gnarly Nutrition Videos:   Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review forÂ
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Ep.14 - Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman "Chalk Chat, A Fireside Romp"
01/31/2015
Ep.14 - Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman "Chalk Chat, A Fireside Romp"
On filming climbing videos, what they love and hate about climbing media, livestreaming competitions, and what the public wants most. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman are the co-owners of the media company Louder Than 11. They began their endeavor by making climbing films and putting them on the internet for free. As their skill set grew and their films gained more acclaim, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman expanded their exploits into the commercial market doing live streams of climbing competitions and filming commercials for numerous outdoor industry companies. In their efforts, Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman have gone above and beyond to always be improving their craft and pushing the boundaries of climbing and outdoor industry media. Join them as they discuss the intricacies of media production and the fun and not-so-fun parts of dealing with clients. Show Notes for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman: The origins of Louder Than 11 Why and how their downloads are free How they didn't compete with BigUp and Sender Films Their business philosophy The importance of story and theme Rapid learning curves and inevitable mistakes Still committed to learning Livestream and the future What works when streaming an event Media markets in the mainstream Related Links and Sponsors for Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shiman: Videos: Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep.13 - Neely Quinn "Training for the Masses"
01/31/2015
Ep.13 - Neely Quinn "Training for the Masses"
On the TrainingBeta.com website, podcasts, and training programs. We also talk about injuries, nutrition, and more. Enjoy! Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on Neely Quinn is a nutritionist and a rock climber who wished to figure out how to improve at her favorite sport. That's why she began TrainingBeta.com. Training Beta has grown into one of the internet's best resources for training programs and information with downloadable programs and monthly subscription plans. Make sure to follow the link below to TrainingBeta.com to see what Neely's got going on over there. Show Notes for Neely Quinn of Training Beta: How Neely became interested in studying nutrition and becoming a nutritionist Becoming location independent with TrainingBeta.com Simplifying climbing training for the everyman Downloadable programs and year-long subscription programs What to expect with the downloadable and subscription programs Nutrition for climbing Recognizing you weaknesses Injuries and rehab Related Links and Sponsors for the episode with Neely Quinn of Training Beta: Videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11Ifrvx64S0 Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep.12 - Jeremy Ho "Setting for the Empire"
10/19/2014
Ep.12 - Jeremy Ho "Setting for the Empire"
On the difficulties of running such a vast empire, the future of Touchstone, and all things routesetting. Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on *Post-publishing disclaimer-Jeremy listened to the episode and alerted me to the fact that, when we were speaking about the history of Touchstone, he misspoke and referenced City Beach when he meant to say City Rock climbing gym. He sends his deepest apologies and says, "I was nervous" I think we can forgive him* Jeremy Ho is the head routesetter of Touchstone Climbing Gyms. He is responsible for managing a team of routesetters that don't just worry about spinning holds in one gym, but soon-to-be 12 gyms. And not just your local whosie whatsit gym. If you haven't seen the Touchstone gyms, they are usually on the bigger side of huge. Their flagship gym (also their first), , boasts 23,000 sq/ft of climbing terrain, 50 ft. walls, and 2,000 sq/ft of bouldering terrain. Not to mention their San Francisco bouldering gym, , has 14,000 of bouldering terrain. Needless to say, their routesetters have to be on their game, and Jeremy is the man who coordinates the team. He has been routesetting since 2009 and has since completed his level 3 certification with USA Climbing, set for SCS youth nationals, and hosted a SCS youth regionals and an ABS youth divisionals. If you're curious about how the setting for these big super gyms happens, or want to know more about setting and comp theory, look no further because Jeremy Ho is the man when it comes to commercial climbing gyms. Show Notes for Jeremy Ho: The schedule, process, and theory behind setting at Touchstone The future plans and expansions of the Touchstone empire Theory of routesetting Managing a team that spans from San Francisco to Los Angeles Dealing with setter ego, injuries, and burnout Bringing comps to Touchstone and their effects and more..... Related Links and Sponsors for episode with Jeremy Ho: Videos: http://vimeo.com/57581132 Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for
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Ep._67_w_Jared_Vagy.mp3
04/10/2018
Ep._67_w_Jared_Vagy.mp3
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Ep.66_w_John_22Verm22_Sherman.mp3
12/03/2017
Ep.66_w_John_22Verm22_Sherman.mp3
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