Haptic & Hue
Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles explores the way in which cloth speaks to us and the impact it has on our lives. It looks at how fabric traditions have grown up and the innovations that underpin its creation. It thinks about the skills that go into constructing it and what it means to the people who use it. It looks at the different light textiles cast on the story of humanity.
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Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival
10/03/2024
Flax is Back! The Great Linen Revival
There is a global flax revival underway. In the great linen belt of North Western Europe, the land under cultivation has more than doubled in a decade and linen production is steadily increasing worldwide. After years of being spurned for ‘easier’ man-made fibres, or cotton, once again linen is being valued. It may only be around half-a-percent of the world’s textile fibres at present, but this time it is being grown not just for fine fabrics, but also because it's gentler on the land. It needs less water, fewer pesticides and fertilizers, and new uses are being found for it too, from creating surfboards to skis, from acoustic insulation to car doors. Flax looks back as well as forward. Like no other yarn, it is the ancient fibre of civilisation. Linen has walked the long centuries alongside mankind. In Europe and Western Asia, its cultivation reaches back thousands of years to the beginning of human settlement and farming. It clothed the pharaohs of Egypt in life and death, it powered the ships of ancient Greece and Troy, it is mentioned more than 80 times in the Old Testament. This is the fabric that wrapped the Dead Sea Scrolls to keep them safe down the centuries. Join us this month as Haptic and Hue travels to Ireland, once the undisputed centre of the world’s linen processing industry to see what it is making of the great flax revival and how Irish linen is faring. For more information about this episode and pictures of the people and places mentioned in this episode please go to
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Elizabeth Wayland Barber & The Age of String
09/05/2024
Elizabeth Wayland Barber & The Age of String
Exactly thirty years ago a book came out that changed the way we think about textiles and fibre and the role they’ve played in the human story. Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years by Elizabeth Wayland Barber became a best seller. What she said was revolutionary. Until then people thought that textiles were a by-product of civilisations and that processes like weaving were around five or six thousand years old. Wayland Barber was the first person to understand that they are central to the development of human society, and she said, spinning and weaving were far older than we realised and went back to the beginnings of human social development. She coined the phrase The String Revolution and suggested the Stone Age would have been better called the Age of String. Elizabeth Wayland Barber’s book: Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years with its radical ideas, put textiles at the heart of the human story. It played a major role in creating a new generation of expert textile archaeologists and in getting the subject taken seriously. She helped make it possible for them to search for ancient fibre and textiles and, crucially, to understand that what they were seeing wasn’t detritus or trash but something precious that has a great deal to tell us about human beings and what they are capable of. She was also one of the first people to give us a way to value the work of women in pre-historic societies. To celebrate the book’s 30th anniversary a new edition has been published with an updated afterword by Wayland Barber. This episode of Haptic & Hue is devoted to a rare interview with Elizabeth Wayland Barber in which she tells us how she came to write the book in the first place and the ideas that lay behind it. For more information about this episode and details of the discount on the book please go to
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America’s Cotton Feed Sacks: And How They Changed The World
06/06/2024
America’s Cotton Feed Sacks: And How They Changed The World
The American cotton feed sack is the stuff of legend. From the 1850s onwards it was skilfully repurposed by women across America into all kinds of garments and household goods. By the late 1930s when it became highly patterned, it's estimated that more than 3 million Americans were wearing feed sack clothing. Out of necessity, it was made into dresses and shirts, quilts and curtains, sheets, mattress covers, pyjamas, and even undergarments. Today feed sacks are valued by collectors and makers in America, and there is a lively market in them. But these soft cotton sacks have a much wider story to tell us than that. They have played a role in creating one of the world’s legendary cricket teams, they have saved a nation from the brink of starvation and in this episode of Haptic & Hue, we tell the incredible story of how a flour sack re-united a family with the something created by the grandmother they lost in in the Holocaust. For pictures of the feedsacks talked out in this episode and more information about the contributors please go to
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Australia’s Convict Quilt: Something to be Proud Of
05/02/2024
Australia’s Convict Quilt: Something to be Proud Of
An extraordinary quilt handstitched by convict women on board ship as they were transported from Britain to Australia in 1841 has just gone on display in a new exhibition at Australia’s National Gallery. Many of those who made the quilt were illiterate and led tough and impoverished lives. And yet these social outcasts and exiles - working in desperate circumstances - created one of the most important cultural artifacts in the colonial history of Australia. The Rajah Quilt – named after the ship the women were transported on - has nearly 3,000 individual pieces. It is one of the only items made by convicts that survives from this part of Australia’s past, which was buried in shame for so long. The quilt gives us a rare chance to re-assess what it meant to be transported and to see how it has become an important part of Australia’s history and a powerful symbol of how many people first came to this country. For more information, a full transcript and further links:
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The Forgotten Medieval Craft of Cloth Staining
04/04/2024
The Forgotten Medieval Craft of Cloth Staining
From the grandest palace to the poorest cottage, so-called ‘stained’ cloths brought colour and joy to everyday life in England for hundreds of years. These specially painted and stamped fabrics formed the backdrop to funerals, ceremonies, processions, masques, and tournaments that required banners, flags, pennants or scenery from 1300 onwards. But this world of dazzling medieval colour and pattern has been mostly lost to history because so much of the cloth has perished, and the craft of the stainers has been so little understood. Now Haptic & Hue re-discovers the secrets of making stained cloth and looks at how it was used. This episode uncovers the secrets of the 14th century fabric stainers which lie in a pocket-sized book, transcribed more than six hundred years ago, by monks at Gloucester Cathedral. It contains 30 recipes for preparing cloth and special water-based colours to permanently paint and block print wool and linen. Haptic & Hue took a trip to Gloucester Cathedral to explore the lost world of medieval textiles. For more information, a full transcript and further links, see
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Invisible Hands: Tapestry Weavers and Artists
03/07/2024
Invisible Hands: Tapestry Weavers and Artists
Great tapestries have been used to decorate and embellish homes and palaces for centuries, and yet the hands that created these works remain almost completely forgotten. Art institutions treasure their ancient tapestries woven painstakingly over many months, and even years and know almost everything about them, except the names of those who created these extraordinary pieces. Modern artists, like Picasso, Henry Moore and Marc Chagall see their work rendered into a different and exciting form by tapestry weavers, but no-one remembers who the weaver was or is. This episode of Haptic and Hue looks at tapestry weaving and the process of collaboration that goes on between an artist and a weaver to produce a new work. It asks if tapestry weavers are forever destined to be seen as anonymous helping hands, or if their skill, craft and artistry is now, finally, beginning to be recognised as an art in its own right. We talk to a gifted tapestry weaver about what it is like to work on a piece for several months and how much of herself she pours into each new weaving. For more information, a full transcript and further links, see
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The Garment That Sweeps Through History: The Everlasting Cloak
02/01/2024
The Garment That Sweeps Through History: The Everlasting Cloak
There’s a piece of clothing that has a good claim to being a universal garment. It is thousands of years old and yet it featured on the catwalks last year. It’s stylish and at the same time the humblest and simplest of garments. It has been worn and enjoyed by rich and poor alike. It has been repurposed and reshaped throughout human history and it has fulfilled many functions. The cloak has kept us good company throughout the centuries, it has marched with armies across plains and deserts, it has been sanctified and worn by saints, and was just as beloved by sinners such as highwaymen. It became the emblem of witches on broomsticks and superheroes flying through the sky. It was worn by hobbits to make them invisible and it is still revered as the ultimate in stylish outerwear by Venetians. This episode of Haptic & Hue looks at the cloak, cape, cope, mantle, and all its other many forms through history and tries to answer the question of why it has proved such a joyful, useful and versatile garment. For more information, a full transcript and further links, see
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Ukraine's Revolutionary Act of Embroidery: How Identity Survives in Stitches
01/04/2024
Ukraine's Revolutionary Act of Embroidery: How Identity Survives in Stitches
As the war in the Ukraine brutally shows, few people have had as hard a struggle down the centuries to maintain their identity as Ukrainians. For hundreds of years, they have been occupied and subjugated by one power after another, the Ottomans, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Russia, Poland, the Nazis, and Russia again. Through it all Ukrainians have held onto their traditions: one of the strongest of these has been the beautifully and skilfully stitched motifs on plain linen or hemp shirts. The embroidery of Ukraine is one of its secret weapons and an incredible defence against the cultural annihilation that has been practiced against it. What it means to be a Ukrainian is powerfully expressed in the complex and beautifully worked stitches that go into decorating their national dress. The knowledge of what each stitch means and the skill to make these shirts is thriving and continues to be passed down the generations. This episode of Haptic & Hue is about how the beautifully embroidered shirts and blouses of Ukraine have endured as a symbol of the country’s fight for existence and have become so entwined with the identity of Ukrainians that some refer to it as part of their genetic code. For more information, a full transcript and further links, see
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The Point of The Needle - How the Ancient Craft of Stitching Shapes Us
12/07/2023
The Point of The Needle - How the Ancient Craft of Stitching Shapes Us
The needle and thread have been humanity’s constant companions for tens of thousands of years: far longer than the dog, the sword, or the wheel, and much longer than reading and writing. Down the centuries the needle has rendered us incredible service and we have come to depend on it. And yet the activity of stitching has long been ignored in the record of human endeavour. Even the modern trend for embracing making and craft tends to leave out sewing. But a new book just out, comes to try to redress the balance. Haptic & Hue’s Book of the Year for 2023 is Barbara Burman’s The Point of The Needle. In it, Barbara says ‘stitching and stitches are valued precisely because they embody human life and invention, and cloth itself is inseparable from them’. Barbara was the co-author of the well-received book called ‘The Pocket – A Secret History of Women’s Lives’, but in this new book, Barbara has a much bigger canvas: to rescue sewing from the twilight and to celebrate it as a fundamental human activity. For more information, a full transcript, and further links,
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The Language of Thread - Why Sewing Matters and How It Was Taught
11/02/2023
The Language of Thread - Why Sewing Matters and How It Was Taught
Sewing is one of the most vital but also one of the most overlooked human crafts. Every piece of clothing we wear has been put together by someone who has learned to sew. Millions of people sew for pleasure and millions more earn their living in the textile and clothing industries – often in underpaid and unprotected jobs. The craft of using a needle has been one of humanity’s greatest skills, ever since this tiny piece of technology came into use around 60,000 years ago. It is something that unites us all as human beings, regardless of ethnicity, religion or geography. For most of time, sewing as a skill was passed from generation to generation. But, in the last few hundred years, as textiles and thread have been produced in abundance, how we learned to sew became a political matter. Governments, churches, politicians, and corporations all had a view on the morality and the methods necessary to turn out the ideal needlewoman. This episode of Haptic & Hue tells the little-known story of how two separate sewing schools on different sides of the Atlantic gave women all over the world a new life of economic independence, social status and personal power. One of these education programmes took the Singer sewing machine into every corner of the globe. The other, a ground-breaking teacher training college in London, had an impact on the lives of millions of girls all over the world. For more information, a full transcript and further links,
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Cabbage and Mungo: How Recycling Returned To Savile Row
10/05/2023
Cabbage and Mungo: How Recycling Returned To Savile Row
There is a quiet revolution happening on Savile Row in London, home to some of the world’s finest men’s outfitters, as the makers of bespoke suits embrace textile recycling in a unique new scheme. A number of houses on The Row have been collecting woollen offcuts as they cut and tailor handmade men’s clothing – just as they did in times gone by– and sending them off to be recycled into new yarn, which is then woven into fresh cloth. The radical difference is that this time the recycled cloth is being bought back by these high-end workshops to be tailored and sold to the Row’s own bespoke customers. Savile Row, in the heart of London, has been at the centre of high-quality men’s tailoring for 200 years. It has supplied handmade suits, from the finest woven cloth, to film stars and royalty, to statesmen and sportsmen. It has a reputation for quality and excellence second to none. Now it is embracing recycling, and it seems, its top-end clients are happy to pay for it. It’s incredibly rare to find a recycling loop like this one – especially in textiles - where the waste is turned into quality new material to be used by the same workshops that created it in the first place. This episode tells the story of how this is happening and follows the journey that turns tiny bits of fabric that would previously have been binned, into new bespoke garments, ones that come with great credentials and an interesting story behind them. Along the way Haptic & Hue gets a privileged glimpse into the world of Savile Row tailoring – the training and the standards that need to be maintained from start to finish to produce a garment that may well last a century or more. If you would like to see a full script of this episode, see photos or discover links to further information about the topics discussed you can find all this information at . You can follow Haptic & Hue on
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The People's Art - Material and The Modern Masters
09/07/2023
The People's Art - Material and The Modern Masters
Have you ever wanted a Picasso on your walls – or maybe a Joan Miro, a Chagall, or perhaps a Raoul Dufy? For a time in the mid-50s in America you could buy work by these artists for just a few dollars: that's a few dollars a yard, because these were fabrics and not original paintings – but they were beautifully designed, sophisticated, and elegant. As peace crept back after World War Two there was an intense hunger for new design. After five long years of uniforms, and sacrifice, people wanted something interesting to wear, and colourful fabrics to decorate their homes with. In America manufacturers were quick to turn their machines from military production to domestic demand. This episode of Haptic & Hue is about how fresh and fashionable textiles were amongst the first items people were able to enjoy in the post-war period. It focuses on a short period when manufacturers turned to established artists, like Picasso, Raoul Dufy, Marc Chagall and Miro, to help them create brilliant new textiles. It looks in particular at Daniel B Fuller’s attempt to build what he called “A Museum Without Walls’ with his Modern Masters series of textiles in the 1950s. It is also about what grew out of that, and tells the story of a young artist, unknown at the time, who worked for these same textile producers as a pattern designer, using his experience and skills to change the face of twentieth century art. For more information, a full transcript, and further links,
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The Tangled Tale of Tartan
06/01/2023
The Tangled Tale of Tartan
Who doesn’t love a good tartan? It is everywhere from high fashion catwalks to shooting parties on winter hillsides, from military uniforms on parade to much-loved old sofas. It is at home in the humblest of cottages and the most splendid of royal palaces. It has a kaleidoscope of different uses and meanings. It is one of the most recognised patterns on earth, a global textile, visible almost everywhere. But tartan is much more than a pattern, it is a fabric of contradiction and surprise. It holds many meanings, often simultaneously. It can represent the establishment and the power of the state, and at the same time signify rebellion and treachery. It can be an emblem of enslavement and oppression, or it can represent comfort, family, and home. Its meanings are as diverse as its many patterns. In this episode of Haptic & Hue’s Tales of Textiles, we look at where tartan comes from and how it acquired its many meanings and controversies, and why some people love it and others hate it. Tartan is a textile of duality, able to hold many ideas within its simple grid design. It has a history that has spread out across the world and taken a sense of what it means to be Scottish with it. But there is more than history to tartan: we also hear from a bespoke kilt-maker, who designs and registers her own tartans. She creates modern tartans able to embrace new definitions of identity and community and expand far beyond the Highland glens they first sprung from. All of this has been put into context by the first exhibition in living memory about Tartan in Scotland itself, which opened in April 2023 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in Dundee, which we went to see as part of making this episode. For more information, a full transcript, and further links,
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A Dance to The Music of Time
05/04/2023
A Dance to The Music of Time
This is the tale of how textiles played a central part in one of the great cultural and artistic upheavals of the last century, helping to bring about a change that was to reach deep into many lives, influencing fashion, interior design, illustration, art, and dance. The Ballet Russe, gathered together by the mercurial figure of Serge Diaghilev in the early part of the twentieth century, was revolutionary in almost everything it did. The dancers, the music, the choreography, the sets, and the costumes astonished audiences – no one had seen anything like it before. The ballets became so popular that the costumes were copied by fashion designers and began to appear on the street. The Ballet Russe was such a phenomenon that artists like Matisse and Picasso were happy to design for it, joining in-house artists like Bakst and Goncharova. Today, over a hundred years later, very little survives of the incredible performances given across Europe and America by the company, except the glorious music and the wonderful costumes. These are often battered and bruised by a life on the road – they are far from pristine, stained with sweat and makeup, repaired and remade, but they have extraordinary power and wonderful stories to tell us, of where they were made and how they were used to change our ideas about dance and culture. For more information, a full transcript, and further links,
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A Sliver of Deep Blue Cloth
04/06/2023
A Sliver of Deep Blue Cloth
Warning: This podcast and the text below uses terms considered offensive and inappropriate today. An extraordinary sample of indigo cloth has been found in a British record office which is thought to be a rare surviving fragment of fabric used to clothe enslaved people in the Caribbean and North America. The Haptic & Hue team of Jo Andrews and Bill Taylor was alerted to its existence in early January. We travelled to Derbyshire to see it and realised from a note on the back that we were looking at a piece of so-called ‘slave’ cloth, handwoven in Yorkshire in 1783. Millions of yards of this fabric were handmade in Britain and Ireland and sent to the plantations for nearly two hundred years, but until now none was known to have survived. This episode of Haptic & Hue unravels the story-threads of this tiny piece of cloth which begin on the upland moors of Yorkshire, and takes us to America and the Caribbean, but also involve Wales, the Lake District, Ireland, Scotland, Germany, Poland, Russia, and the Baltic. The different light that textiles cast on this history show us how profits from the system of slavery were part of the everyday lives of workers and landowners all over Britain and Europe and didn’t just benefit a few rich plantation owners. For more information, a full transcript, and further links,
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No Costume? No Carnival!
03/02/2023
No Costume? No Carnival!
It’s Carnival season, time to take to the streets for a party and see the spectacle. But Carnival is about so much more than that. At its heart is the idea that with costumes and masks, people can become shapeshifters, and transform themselves for a short period into someone else. Carnival is the work of a community and a chance for the powerless and the poor to be free for a day and claim equality with the rich and powerful. Each Carnival is different and takes its traditions and ideas from its own culture and the needs of its own people. This episode looks at how different Carnivals developed and how textiles and masks play a central role in the political ideas behind them. It starts in Venice a thousand years ago as the poor were allowed to let off steam once a year. It crosses the Atlantic as the rich plantation owners brought Mardi Gras to the Caribbean, and saw it creatively developed by the enslaved and the poor into a series of glorious feasts of costume, music, and dance. It tracks Carnival as it was brought to Britain by Caribbean migrants as a celebration of their culture and community. And in all of these, it thinks about how textiles and clothing play a central role. If you would like to see a full script of this episode, pictures of the carnival traditions discussed in this podcast, or discover links to further information about the topics discussed you can find all this information at .
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Is the Needle Mightier Than the Sword?
02/02/2023
Is the Needle Mightier Than the Sword?
The little needle is one of the oldest tools in existence. We know that human beings began to use them more than sixty thousand years ago. Needles, and the textiles that came later have changed humanity completely and helped to make modern society what it is. But until recently very little attention has been paid to them. The contribution that textiles and the tools that surround them have made to our lives has been only dimly understood. This is changing as a new breed of archaeologist – textile archaeologists take centre stage and in doing completely alter our understanding of how humanity developed. In this episode of Haptic & Hue, we talk to one of the world’s most eminent textile archaeologists, Margarita Gleba. The evidence that she and others are piecing together for the first time from precious ancient textiles tell us new stories about how human beings organised their families, farms, towns, and cities, waged war and traded, how they expressed ideas of status and identity in clothing and how they used textiles in every corner of their lives. Some of the greatest mysteries of our existence remain to be unlocked and their secrets may lie in the textiles that have not yet been properly analysed or researched. Listen to Margarita Gleba as she takes us on an expert’s tour of the deep past and with her knowledge of textiles begins to sketch in some of the gaps. If you would like to see a full script of the episode or discover links to further information about the topics discussed here you can find all this information at www.hapticandhue.com/listen.
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Coarse Shifts and Fine Silks
01/05/2023
Coarse Shifts and Fine Silks
Clothes are a window to our identity – they tell others who we are, what we believe in, and whether we are rich or poor, powerful or powerless. They also tell us a great deal about who someone is, whether they are tall or short, skinny or full-bodied, and what sort of life they lead, one of leisure or one of unremitting hard work. These clues make garments and textiles a wonderful way to understand the people of the past, what their lives were really like, and who they were. This episode is about the clothes of a community, the community that lived at Mount Vernon in America when it was the home of George Washington and his wife Martha. George is a hero to Americans as the general who commanded the Revolution against the British and went on to become the first president. But what do his clothes tell us about him as a living, breathing person? His estate, Mount Vernon was not just home to him and his family - more than 300 people lived and worked on five farms there. Too often the focus of researchers and historians in the past has been on the textiles and fabrics of the rich and powerful, but clothes can tell us a good deal too about the poor and dispossessed and we can also look at the fabrics and the textiles that were used to dress everyone at Mount Vernon, from the Washingtons themselves to their field workers and labourers. If you would like to see a full script of the episode or discover links to further information about the topics discussed here you can find all this information at
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Stitches by Candlelight
12/01/2022
Stitches by Candlelight
Mary Queen of Scots is one of the most written about women in history. We think we know her well – but here’s a new account that re-interprets her life from the point of view of the textiles she wore and the embroideries she stitched. It casts a completely different light on her difficult existence and brings her fully into focus as a living, breathing human being. Here is a renaissance queen displaying her power in violet taffeta and purple velvet, who wore silver to mourn, black to display her statesmanship, and white for innocence and piety. The book is Clare Hunter’s Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power, and it is Haptic & Hue’s choice for our Book of the Year 2022. In this special end-of-year episode, Jo talks at length to Clare about her research and what it told her about Mary. It sets Mary in context both as a consumer of elite textiles and also as an embroiderer during her long captivity. At her death, Mary left over 300 embroideries, many of which can still be seen both in Scotland and England, which she used to tell her own story. They give us an insight into her state of mind and the messages she was trying to convey to the outside world. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links and show-notes at Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power can be bought in the . Haptic & Hue earns a small commission on this at no extra cost to you.
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Stitches by Candlelight
12/01/2022
Stitches by Candlelight
Mary Queen of Scots is one of the most written about women in history. We think we know her well – but here’s a new account that re-interprets her life from the point of view of the textiles she wore and the embroideries she stitched. It casts a completely different light on her difficult existence and brings her fully into focus as a living, breathing human being. Here is a renaissance queen displaying her power in violet taffeta and purple velvet, who wore silver to mourn, black to display her statesmanship, and white for innocence and piety. The book is Clare Hunter’s Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power, and it is Haptic & Hue’s choice for our Book of the Year 2022. In this special end-of-year episode, Jo talks at length to Clare about her research and what it told her about Mary. It sets Mary in context both as a consumer of elite textiles and also as an embroiderer during her long captivity. At her death, Mary left over 300 embroideries, many of which can still be seen both in Scotland and England, which she used to tell her own story. They give us an insight into her state of mind and the messages she was trying to convey to the outside world. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links and show-notes at Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power can be bought in the . Haptic & Hue earns a small commission on this at no extra cost to you.
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Stitches by Candlelight
12/01/2022
Stitches by Candlelight
Mary Queen of Scots is one of the most written about women in history. We think we know her well – but here’s a new account that re-interprets her life from the point of view of the textiles she wore and the embroideries she stitched. It casts a completely different light on her difficult existence and brings her fully into focus as a living, breathing human being. Here is a renaissance queen displaying her power in violet taffeta and purple velvet, who wore silver to mourn, black to display her statesmanship, and white for innocence and piety. The book is Clare Hunter’s Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power, and it is Haptic & Hue’s choice for our Book of the Year 2022. In this special end-of-year episode, Jo talks at length to Clare about her research and what it told her about Mary. It sets Mary in context both as a consumer of elite textiles and also as an embroiderer during her long captivity. At her death, Mary left over 300 embroideries, many of which can still be seen both in Scotland and England, which she used to tell her own story. They give us an insight into her state of mind and the messages she was trying to convey to the outside world. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links and show-notes at Embroidering Her Truth, Mary Queen of Scots and the Language of Power can be bought in the . Haptic & Hue earns a small commission on this at no extra cost to you.
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Returning The Spirit of a Soldier
11/03/2022
Returning The Spirit of a Soldier
A ragged flag and torn flag, nearly eighty years old was posted last month from a home not far from London. It doesn’t look like much but it is infinitely precious, both to the person who sent it and to the family in Japan that created it. If the family can be found, this flag may be the only thing that remains of their brother, father, uncle or grandfather who went missing in the Second World War. If it is returned to them they will have something to mourn after all these years. The women who posted it is the daughter of a British soldier who fought the Japanese in the War. She hopes the flag can be repatriated and she says in her letter: “I have no illusion how my father came by this flag but I do hope that somehow, just maybe we can put a tiny piece of the horror of war to rest.” The new episode of Tales of Textiles is about Yosegaki Hinomaru, good luck flags signed by the friends and families of Japanese soldiers going off to war. Many became war trophies for Allied soldiers and now finally, after all these years, some of them are being returned to the families of the men for whom they were first made. For their descendants this small piece of cloth is so much more than a textile, it represents the return of their relative’s spirit home. This episode deals with war and loss, death and mourning. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links and show-notes at . If you would like to find out about the Obon Society you can find them at
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Strong Community Threads
10/06/2022
Strong Community Threads
Imagine the person who sits behind the counter in the post office or serves your coffee in the Main Street coffee shop has a superpower, one that she shares with your child’s teacher, the administrator in a building company, and the nurse you met last week at the clinic. All of them are talented textile designers, part of a community that works to the highest standards and turns out work that bears comparison with the best being produced in America. The Folly Cove Designers were an extraordinary group of people who created beautiful and inspirational textile designs in a little-known community in Massachusetts. They had no professional qualifications and they were taught around a kitchen table by one woman. For nearly thirty years they formed a close creative and supportive network making work of the highest quality. Even today, over half a century later the story of the Folly Cove Designers has a lot to tell us about how excellence happens and why communities matter. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links, and show-notes at .
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The Secret Life of Second-Hand Clothes
09/01/2022
The Secret Life of Second-Hand Clothes
What happens to your old clothes? Do you drop them off at the charity shop or turn them into the textile recycling bin at the store? They leave your wardrobe and your thoughts – but what happens next and where do they end up? This episode of Haptic & Hue’s Tales of Textiles wraps up old clothes, flea markets, the invention of a special form of jazz, the horror of today’s textile excess, and glimmers of hope for the future. This edition of Haptic and Hue is about the past, the present, and what could be the future of second-hand clothes and textile recycling. Once we lived in an age when yarns and fabrics were hard-won and precious, today we live in an era of textile excess where cloth production uses far too much of the world’s precious resources for clothes that we wear a few times and then throw away. But it doesn’t have to be like this. Come on a journey with Haptic and Hue to find out the secrets of second-hand clothes. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links, show notes and more at
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The Long and Winding Road of Lace
07/07/2022
The Long and Winding Road of Lace
The long arc of human history has been accompanied since the 1400s one way or another by lace. The Italians call this, delightfully, ‘Stitches in Air’ and it has many origin myths from the Venice lagoon to the gently rolling countryside of northern Europe. It has been smuggled and stolen, worn and desired by kings and cavaliers, by maids and madmen. It has been painted and preserved and the songs and rhymes of lace makers have been passed down the generations. This episode of Haptic and Hue is about one of the most intricate and complex human skills ever developed – lace-making. But it is not just about the deeply storied history of lace, it’s also about its modern revival as a new and beautiful art form and how contemporary craftswoman and men are using lace techniques to address complex issues like gender, sexuality, and climate change. You can find a full script of this podcast, pictures, links and show-notes at as well as detail on how to find your own lace classes and lace books.
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Pears and Pomegranates
06/02/2022
Pears and Pomegranates
The Italian Renaissance produced glorious masterpieces by artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Michaelangelo who are justly feted for their talent. But look again at these pictures and you realise that they show the work of other artists as well, artists whose work was hugely skilled, well rewarded, and just as valued by the elite of the day who could afford to buy it. But the names of these spinners and dyers, the weavers and embroiderers are lost to us, and their work has largely crumbled to dust. This episode is about them and the painters who depicted the marvels they could create by hand. Five hundred years after the Renaissance it is often the paint that survives, rather than the fabric depicted. But the extraordinary skills needed to produce the lustrous and sumptuous cloth that we see reflected in the paintings lit up this age, provided a rich spectacle, and told us so much about how the people of this time wanted to be seen and the stories they told about themselves. Across Italy, as machines replaced humans those skills have faded almost – but not quite - entirely. This episode explores two workshops where the old ways are still followed and ancient skills kept alive as beautiful fabrics are produced and processed by hand. For a full script of this podcast, pictures, links, and show notes please go to .
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Fabric and Foundlings
05/05/2022
Fabric and Foundlings
In 18th century London, the secret of your birth could literally hang by a thread. If your mother took you to the Foundling Hospital because she was unable to care for you, you were given a new identity to avoid any shame. But, in case she was later able to reclaim you, she left a token, often a textile cut in two, and she kept the other half as a way of proving she was your mother. Often it was just a scrap of cloth, the only thing that could prove the link between you and your birth mother. This episode looks at how the system of leaving textile tokens at the Foundling Hospital worked, and also the information that one of the best collections of the clothing worn by the poor in the 1700s gives us into the lives of ordinary people. The dress of the elite tends to be preserved, but we know very little about the garments of the poor: did they dress in hand-me-downs or homespun, or did they have access to anything fashionable? Two hundred and fifty years after these tokens were first left in desperate circumstances, we can now see them both as a way to tell us about the lives of women in the past and to understand what they wore and how they dressed their babies. For a full script of this podcast and show-notes please go to where you will also find pictures and links to further information about the people you hear in this episode.
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The Refugees Who Dazzled London
04/07/2022
The Refugees Who Dazzled London
Over the past months, we have watched in horror as nearly ten million people have fled their homes in Ukraine to escape the Russian invasion. They have become the world’s latest refugees. That word was first applied to some of the most skilled and expert handweavers who began arriving in London in the 1500 and 1600s to escape death and persecution in France. This is the story of how these forced migrants – known as Huguenots - changed the face of London, and created some of the world’s most complex and beautiful silk fabric. It is also a tale of hope and resilience in a time of difficulty and darkness. This episode tracks the story of the Huguenots, who they were, and why a summer wedding ignited a violent massacre that forced them to flee France. It looks at some of the striking parallels between the Ukrainian refugees and the arrival of the Huguenots in Britain, and it also thinks about the amazing silk cloth the Huguenots were able to create on draw looms, working entirely without power in London weaving lofts. For a full script of this podcast and show notes please go to where you will also find pictures and links to further information about the people you can hear in this episode.
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Introduction to Season 4
03/31/2022
Introduction to Season 4
Welcome to the fourth season of Haptic and Hue’s Tales of Textiles. This season is called Threads of Survival and the eight episodes focus on people who have seen hardship and difficulty, but who have survived and often flourished against the odds. This introduction sets the context for the new Season and provides a mini-guide to the thinking behind the episodes. In it, we will explore stories of different peoples and different threads and textiles that in the face of poverty, intolerance, violence, enslavement, or sometimes just indifference, have shown great resilience, and have survived and often triumphed. I hope these podcasts give us a fresh way of looking at the world - one that allows us to hear what textiles have to say and helps us understand the central role cloth plays in our cultures and how it enables us to express our deepest feelings and emotions. There are some changes to Haptic and Hue for this season. Episodes will now be uploaded on the first Thursday of every month and will continue throughout the year with a short break in the summer. This is to give us a chance to explore more widely and to research some topics that we don’t know so well. We will also be announcing shortly details of a Haptic and Hue Membership or Community scheme where we hope to provide a regular behind-the-scenes look at what we are doing, as well as some extra content. For a full script of this podcast and shownotes please go to .
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Canada's Forgotten Quilts
01/27/2022
Canada's Forgotten Quilts
Can a nation simply forget an astonishing operation in which its women and children made nearly half a million quilts to comfort the victims of the Second World in Europe? It seems that Canada has come close to doing that. Only now, nearly 80 years later, is this story being pieced together for the first time by some very determined researchers and textile sleuths. It’s a tale that has never been properly told and the women and children who made these quilts have never been honoured or thanked properly for their work. This episode of Haptic and Hue’s Tales of Textiles begins with a mystery quilt that turned up on a cold winter’s morning 30 years ago with a strange handwritten label on it. It tracks my efforts to find out what the quilt was and how it came to be made. It uncovers the astonishing story of how millions and millions of items from bandages to sheets, from pajamas to quilts were made by Canadian volunteers as ‘comforts’ to send mainly to Britain in the Second World War, but also later to the Netherlands, France, and Germany, to help those who had lost their homes and all their possessions. The podcast hears from someone who made the quilts and someone who received a quilt and it looks at why this amazing effort was almost completely forgotten. If you would like to know more about the quilts or if you have a quilt and would like to register it or tell someone about it then please go to , where you can find useful links, pictures and a full script of the podcast.
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