How Pro Climbers Manage Injuries - Felipe Camargo
Release Date: 06/05/2023
Energy System Training - Steve Smith
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on...
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How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a...
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Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance....
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TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a...
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Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be...
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Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of...
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Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this...
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Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of...
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DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain....
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The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and...
info_outlineListen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers:
- Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises
- Finger intrinsic strength
- Finger warm-up strategies for climbing
- Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing
- Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring
- Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries
- The variation behind the side and length of climbers’ digits
- Problem solving the mechanics of Felipe’s injuries related to gripping
Felipe was born in Ribeiro Preto, Sao Paulo, Brazil, in 1991. He began climbing at the age of 10 in a small, local rock-gym, and only a few years later, at the age of 15, won his first Brazilian Championship, an achievement he repeated 5 times, as he did with the South American Championship. On rock, he established Brazil’s first V15 (8C) boulder problem and is the first South American climber to reach both 9a+ and 8C grades. Felipe has also become a top exponent of high grade multi-pitch climbs, as illustrated by his second ascent of ‘Corazón de Ensueño’ (250 metros, 8c) in China’s Gethu region.
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