The Climbing Doctor Podcast

The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique.

Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong 11/01/2024

Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations. Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases 06:07 Hormones and their Roles 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners 26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases 28:35 Final Thoughts Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 🎥 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/30297373

Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo 09/01/2024

Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations Stacey's Bio Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love. Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 🎥 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/30800223

Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson 07/01/2024

Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries. Takeaways Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement. Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring. Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation. Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment. Evan Ingerson’s Bio Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Links and Resources for This Episode: 🎥 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/30800318

Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott 05/02/2024

Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization. Takeaways Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence. Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety. Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity. Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing. Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance. Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health 33:17 Final Thoughts Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. CONTACT BETH SCOTT: Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 🎥 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/30350483

DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith 03/01/2024

DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint. Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain. Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury. Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms. Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury. Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations 46:11 Returning to Climbing 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis Contact Steve Smith: [email protected] Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/29778883

The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson 01/01/2024

The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience. Takeaways Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique. Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon. Evan Ingerson’s Bio Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free Consultations Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️ / 📸 /📍 / 📝: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools / / : / Injury Rehab Coures / /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/29263898

Climbing Injury and Training Trends - Patrick Matros 12/05/2023

The Mental Game of Climbing Injuries - Arno Ilgner 11/04/2023

Preparation is Everything - Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou 10/05/2023

Keep Your Body Strong and Resilient for Climbing - Tom Randall 09/05/2023

The Power of Good Footwork Climbing - Kris Hampton 08/04/2023

Full Body Training for Climbing - Dicki Korb 07/05/2023

How Pro Climbers Manage Injuries - Felipe Camargo 06/05/2023

Lower Your Risk For Climbing Injury - Eric Hörst 05/05/2023

Lower Your Risk For Climbing Injury - Eric Hörst Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers: General tips that help you lower injury risk Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for the shoulders Developing the posterior chain Wrist stability for the fingers Final words and last thoughts Erics Hörst's Bio: Eric Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”) is an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40 years. A self-professed “climber for life." Driven by his passion for adventure and challenge, he has established over 400 first ascents and he’s still pushing his personal climbing limits at age 53. Eric is also one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. TEric has written hundreds of magazine articles, appeared on numerous TV broadcasts, and his training techniques and photos have appeared in many publications including Rock & Ice, Climbing, Outside, DeadPoint, Men’s Health, Fortune, Men’s Journal, Muscle Media, Muscle & Fitness, Paddler, Urban Climber, Parents, Wall Street Journal, Experience Life, Outdoor 4X, and National Geographic Adventure, as well as European magazines such as Desnivel, Alpen, Climax, and Climber. Eric is also a published researcher and member of the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Eric produces a monthly Training For Climbing podcast and his training videos are regularly featured on EPIC-TV. Website: Instagram: /episode/index/show/a2e460bf-66d5-4e17-9e70-389e5068e465/id/25461492

AC Joint Sprain Climbing Rehab - Jonathan Siegrist 04/05/2023

Train For Climbing Smarter Not Harder - Steve Bechtel 03/05/2023

Injury Secrets from Movement Coaching - Udo Neumann 02/05/2023

Move Right and Stay Healthy Climbing - John Kettle 01/04/2023

The Climbing Doctor Podcast

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