loader from loading.io

Can we trust textile factory audits in China?

Ecotextile Talks

Release Date: 07/01/2024

Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey show art Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey

Ecotextile Talks

In light of their ,  catches up with , Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and , Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 2022 2021 2020 Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on ,  and  or  here.    

info_outline
California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat show art California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman talks to , Executive Director at the official sponsor of the , a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.   This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk...

info_outline
What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute show art What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute

Ecotextile Talks

What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor They discuss the newly released: "" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy...

info_outline
How big is fashion's plastic footprint? show art How big is fashion's plastic footprint?

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of with one of its co-authors , Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and , , Santa Barbara. We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion. Other studies mentioned in the podcast:   Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on , and or wherever you listen.  Or visit our to find out more on this issue.      

info_outline
Storing the future: cotton's hidden climate benefits show art Storing the future: cotton's hidden climate benefits

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman explores the fascinating world of biogenic carbon storage in cotton garments with , from , from , and from . Together, they delve into the climate benefits of cotton and how it can play a crucial role in the textile industry's sustainability efforts. We cover the following topics Biogenic Carbon Storage: how cotton garments can act as temporary carbon sinks, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and mitigating climate change. Dynamic vs. Static Life Cycle Assessment: an explanation and discussion of dynamic LCAs, how they account for the timing of emissions, and how it can...

info_outline
Fashion brands falling short on climate action show art Fashion brands falling short on climate action

Ecotextile Talks

In this episode, host Philip Berman sits down with Michael Schragger, Founder & Executive Director of the Sustainable Fashion Academy, to discuss the fashion industry's complex journey towards sustainability.  Fresh off the release of  from the end of 2024, Schragger gives a unique insight into the successes and challenges Scandinavian fashion companies face striving to meet climate targets, with lessons for the whole industry..  We discuss: Surprising findings from his annual survey of 55 leading Scandinavian companies working in this sector; The Sustainability Paradox...

info_outline
What a waste! European textile reuse and recycling on brink of collapse show art What a waste! European textile reuse and recycling on brink of collapse

Ecotextile Talks

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Marie-Jeanne Gaertner, project and policy officer at RREUSE (Reuse and Recycling European Union Social Enterprises) to find out why the textile reuse and recycling sector in the European Union is facing an unprecedented crisis. Gaertner says that a recent open letter to the European Commission and member states, penned by RREUSE, explains why the sector is on the brink of financial collapse, with social enterprises bearing the brunt of this turmoil. She notes how the current 'crisis', which has seen several notable business failures in 2024, is unlike any...

info_outline
Inside the legal case against 'Shein's £50 billion IPO' show art Inside the legal case against 'Shein's £50 billion IPO'

Ecotextile Talks

This episode of Ecotextile Talks explores facing fast fashion company Shein as it considers listing on the  (LSE).  In the summer UK based charity, , asked the (FCA) to reject any potential request from Shein to list on the LSE.  At the moment, we don't know for sure whether Shein has submitted a request to the FCA so as we all wait, we thought that it would helpful for a lawyer to take us inside the legal case against Shein's listing on the London Stock Exchange. Not just any lawyer, but the one representing Stop Uyghur Genocide,  from the UK law firm .  We...

info_outline
Navigating new regulations: The Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive explained show art Navigating new regulations: The Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive explained

Ecotextile Talks

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we explore the (CSDD). This significant new European law entered into force on 25 July 2024 and will be rolled out in phases.  Hosted by Philip Berman and featuring , Executive Director of , this discussion sheds light on the critical need for companies to uphold human rights and environmental protections throughout their supply chains. Key questions covered include: How will the CSDD reshape human rights due diligence practices in the textile industry? What specific compliance measures must companies implement to align with this directive? In what...

info_outline
Monitoring organic cotton from space show art Monitoring organic cotton from space

Ecotextile Talks

Our host Philip Berman sits down with Claudia Kersten, managing director of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) to discuss a cotton monitoring project which is literally out of this world.  GOTS is working alongside the European Space Agency (ESA) and artificial intelligence specialist Marple to monitor Indian organic cotton crops from space – using AI and satellite imagery to verify farming techniques and identify fraud.  The participants discuss how using satellite imagery and AI can distinguish between organic cotton fields from conventional ones. The project, funded by...

info_outline
 
More Episodes

Fresh from his high-profile appearance at a recent US Congressional-Executive Commission on China hearing, Scott Nova, Executive Director of the Workers Rights Consortium in Washington DC, gave Philip Berman a hard-hitting interview questioning the reliability of social compliance audits in China. 

Scott says about auditing companies working in the Xinjiang region:

"I'm sure there are some that are actually claiming that they can conclusively demonstrate the absence of forced labor in the region, but no auditor should be working there. It's incredibly disreputable. Even aside from the fact that you can't conduct a methodologically credible audit there, what you were doing by operating there, Is you are enhancing the ability of the Chinese government to keep doing what it is doing to the Uyghur people because the best hope the Uyghur people have is that this economic boycott will convince the Chinese government that it is in its interest to chart a different course in terms of its treatment of the Uyghurs."
Scott and Philip discussed the impact of the Ughur Forced Labor Prevention Act, in stopping goods made using forced Labor coming into the US. 

Interestingly, Scott said that since the Act has come into force, "to our knowledge, nobody has overcome that rebuttable presumption," that goods coming from that region were not made with forced labor. 

We followed up this point with Scott after the podcast - as it appeared that a number of goods had been seized by US customs under the law and Scott told us:

"On UFLPA seizures, there are two different phases of the process. In the first phase, CBP 'targets' shipments that it thinks have content from the Uyghur Region. Some of the targeted shipments are released because CBP determines they don’t have such content. If CBP does confirm there is content from the Uyghur Region, then the shipment is denied entry to the US, based on the presumption that all goods with content from the Uyghur Region were made with forced labor. That is the second phase. At that point, an importer can attempt to rebut that presumption by showing that no forced labor was actually used. No company has successfully done so. The released goods to which you are referring were released in the first phase, based on where the content was from."

It's a fascinating and broad-ranging conversation, with Scott and Philip discussing several issues around this topic, in particular:

Why, according to Scott, impartial factory audits are so hard to carry out in the Xinjiang region? 

Does he think the issue is confined to just this province?

Whether we should trust any social audits in China?

And what does he think this all mean for any company wanting to do business there?

You can read much more on this issue online at Ecotextile News where we most recently reported that a court ruled that the UK National Crime Agency’s (NCA) refusal to investigate forced labour links to cotton imported from China was unlawful.

This comes after cotton exports from the region continue to surge despite legislation in the USA.