Are environmentalists to blame for cotton’s declining share of the textile fibre market?
Ecotextile Talks
Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton’s global share of fibre production? Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes. The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing. Now, this is a...
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From Goats To Garments: Textile Exchange and the Responsible Mohair Journey
Ecotextile Talks
In this edition, made possible with the support of host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt. Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world’s textile industry. She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals. Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best...
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'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain
Ecotextile Talks
While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation. Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation. He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and...
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Data: the ‘daddy’ of all issues at this week’s ZDHC event in Amsterdam
Ecotextile Talks
Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week’s Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts and radio shows by following us on, and . Also, take a look at .
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Chemical Textile Recycling Won't Help Save Fashion, Until We Learn to Fail Better
Ecotextile Talks
In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, , is joined by a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer. The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: '.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling. Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent....
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Beyond The Spin - What Circular Fashion Gets Wrong (And What We’re Missing)
Ecotextile Talks
In this episode host Philip Berman sits down with whose recent on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry. Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative. Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its report. Key Topics Discussed The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the...
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Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey
Ecotextile Talks
In light of their , catches up with , Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and , Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 2022 2021 2020 Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on , and or here.
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California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat
Ecotextile Talks
Host Philip Berman talks to , Executive Director at the official sponsor of the , a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains. This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk...
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What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute
Ecotextile Talks
What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor They discuss the newly released: "" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy...
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How big is fashion's plastic footprint?
Ecotextile Talks
Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of with one of its co-authors , Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and , , Santa Barbara. We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion. Other studies mentioned in the podcast: Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on , and or wherever you listen. Or visit our to find out more on this issue.
info_outlineThis episode of Ecotextile Talks explores the legal challenge facing fast fashion company Shein as it considers listing on the London Stock Exchange (LSE).
In the summer UK based charity, Stop Uyghur Genocide, asked the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) to reject any potential request from Shein to list on the LSE.
At the moment, we don't know for sure whether Shein has submitted a request to the FCA so as we all wait, we thought that it would helpful for a lawyer to take us inside the legal case against Shein's listing on the London Stock Exchange.
Not just any lawyer, but the one representing Stop Uyghur Genocide, Ricardo Gama from the UK law firm Leigh Day.
We discuss:
- The legal basis for opposing Shein's potential listing, focusing on the UK Modern Slavery Act and the Proceeds of Crime Act.
- How these laws could apply to Shein's operations, even though the company produces goods outside the UK.
- The alleged evidence presented to the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) regarding forced labor in the Uyghur region and its alleged connection to Shein's supply chain.
- Shein's response to the allegations and correspondence from Leigh Day
- The potential next steps in the legal process, including the possibility of a judicial review if the Financial Conduct Authority approves any potential Shein's listing.
In the interests of balance and journalistic integrity, we emailed Shein on 25th September to give it an opportunity to respond to the allegations being made in this podcast by Leigh Day, on behalf of Stop Uyghur Genocide, in particular that its supply chain allegedly features forced labour, and the consequential handling of criminal property in breach of the UK Proceeds of Crime Act.
We asked Shein for either a recorded interview to include at the end of this podcast, or a written statement but as of September 30th no one from Shein had replied.
In the podcast we also invited Shein to record a follow-up podcast with us, to respond to the content of this one.
If you would like to read more about the, "NCA and its failure to investigate imports linked to forced labour - see this Guardian article
If you're interested in this issue, then you might like to listen to another recent edition of Ecotextile Talks entitled: "Can we trust textile factory audits in China?" which has an interview with the Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium, Scott Nova.