California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat
Release Date: 03/17/2025
Fake Fashion, Real Danger: The Hidden Toxins in Counterfeit Clothing
Ecotextile Talks
What's really inside that bargain fashion buy? Or that cheap new World Cup soccer strip? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Steve Lamar, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), to discuss the results of new lab tests on counterfeit products, with some quite disturbing findings. He's not just talking about fake logos, but chemicals at unsafe levels and online marketplaces that may know more than they're letting on. Steve also shares what the industry is doing to fight back, and whether it's enough. This episode is...
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The Six-Month Breakthrough That Could Shake Up Sustainable Textiles
Ecotextile Talks
In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, we go inside the development of Lenzing's newest TENCEL™ Lyocell innovation - HV100 - a fibre engineered to deliver the texture, drape and authentic wash-down character of cotton which was created in record-breaking time! Johnny Truong and Julia Ulrich, from Lenzing, walk host Philip Berman through the market signals that they say sparked the idea, the technical hurdles of getting it into production, and why this fibre is opening doors for lyocell in denim's most coveted position - the warp. This podcast is brought to you in a paid...
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Just $1000 a Year: Why Organic Cotton Farmers Deserve a Better Deal
Ecotextile Talks
At the moment, organic cotton farmers in countries such as India and Pakistan earn an average of just $1000 a year. Meanwhile, premiums are stacking up through the supply chain, brands are charging more at retail, but the people actually growing the crop see only a fraction of the value. In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Bart Vollaard from the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) about why he believes the current premium model isn't delivering for the farmers it's supposed to support, and reveals OCA's ambitious to change that. They discuss how a pioneering new...
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Can fashion brands profit from their own second hand clothes?
Ecotextile Talks
In this episode Ecotextile Talks host speaks with Chief Strategy Officer about the company’s “” model, from white-lable branded resale shops to multi-brand clean-out schemes that can turn underused wardrobes into store credit. They discuss what the real driver is for consumers, how ThredUp’s distribution centres work at scale, why brands decide to plug into this infrastructure than trying to build it themselves. Circularity, policy and impact They also discuss what happens to the garments that do not sell, ThredUp’s aftermarket partners, and what % of items entering its...
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Can Cleaner Chemistry Save Fashion – and Nature?
Ecotextile Talks
Ecotextile Talks, host Philip Berman talks to Frank Michel, CEO of the ZDHC Foundation, about why he thinks cleaner chemistry is becoming a hard ESG requirement rather than a nice-to-have for the global textile value chain. They explore how ZDHC has evolved from its original Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) focus into a broader nature-impact lens that links process chemistry to water quality, biodiversity, climate, and investor risk. Frank explains the thinking behind ZDHC’s new impact framework, developed with environmental consultancy Quantis, which uses lifecycle assessment...
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Welcome to the World of Textile Technology - Singapore ITMA
Ecotextile Talks
In partnership with the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), host Philip Berman takes listeners on a virtual journey to ITMA ASIA + CITME in Singapore with guests Alex Zucchi of CEMATEX, Jason Kent CEO of the BTMA, and Richard Slack of Fibre Extrusion Technology. In advance of the exhibition which starts on October 28 in Singapore, they explore how European and UK manufacturers are positioning themselves amid global shifts in textiles, from sustainability and circularity to the rise of technical textiles. Alex explains why ITMA’s format remains unique. Jason highlights the...
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Trump, Tariffs and US Textiles
Ecotextile Talks
Host Philip Berman talks to , President and CEO of the , about the impact of Trump’s tariffs on US textile manufacturing. Kim discusses the challenges posed by tariff unpredictability, including the effects on investment and supply chains, and the winners and losers in the industry. She highlights issues in machinery sourcing, the effect of high tariff rates on synthetics, and the role of major trade agreements like USMCA and CAFTA. Kim also addresses reshoring opportunities, and the strategic need for policy certainty to strengthen domestic production.
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Are environmentalists to blame for cotton’s declining share of the textile fibre market?
Ecotextile Talks
Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton’s global share of fibre production? Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes. The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing. Now, this is a...
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From Goats To Garments: Textile Exchange and the Responsible Mohair Journey
Ecotextile Talks
In this edition, made possible with the support of host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt. Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world’s textile industry. She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals. Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best...
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'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain
Ecotextile Talks
While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation. Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation. He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and...
info_outlineHost Philip Berman talks to Maxine Bedat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute, the official sponsor of the Fashion Environmental Accountability Act, a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.
This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the 'New York Fashion Act' which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk including influential names such as, Rothys, Everlane, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Patagoina, ThredUp, Circ, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, Ganni, Faherty, Cotopaxi, NRDC, Sierra Club, Canopy, Trove, EVRNU, American Academy of Pediatrics. Full list at thefashionact.org
Maxine talks about both bills, their purpose, what stage they have reached in the legislative process. what it’s like trying to push through groundbreaking legislation in two states on opposite sides of the US, simultaneously, whether her work has become harder with President Trump in the White House, and how she manages to build broad support with politicians of all persuasions.
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