077: Transitioning Vineyards to Regenerative Organic Certification with Hilary Graves
Release Date: 08/05/2025
Vineyard Underground
Some of the world’s most valuable vineyard lessons are rooted in vines that predate modern viticulture. In this conversation, we are joined by Dr. Laura Catena to explore Argentina’s remarkable legacy of old, ungrafted vines and what they reveal about vine genetics, site expression, and long-term resilience. Drawing on her experience, Dr. Catena explains why phylloxera never devastated many Argentine vineyards and how this unique history allowed ancient vine material to survive. The discussion dives into massale selection from old vines, highlighting why genetic diversity matters —...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
Planting a vineyard is a major investment, and the decisions made before the first vine goes into the ground can determine long-term success or costly failure. In this episode, Fritz sits down with renowned viticulture expert Dr. Mark Greenspan to unpack the most common red flags vineyard owners and operators should watch for when planning a new planting. Drawing on more than three decades of scientific research and hands-on field experience, Dr. Greenspan explains why many vineyard problems originate long before planting day. Fritz and Dr. Greenspan also discuss the dangers of relying on...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
Pruning is one of the most influential decisions vineyard owners and operators make each season, and in this solo Q&A episode, Fritz tackles the most common — and most misunderstood — questions he hears in the field. Drawing on hands-on experience, Fritz walks listeners through the practical realities of dormant pruning, why it matters far beyond vine appearance, and how pruning choices directly impact vine balance, yield, and long-term vineyard health. Throughout the episode, Fritz addresses real-world concerns from growers, including how aggressive pruning should be, what mistakes...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
A topic that many growers consider but few understand is mothballing a vineyard. In this episode, Fritz covers it all with Dr. Christopher Chen, Integrated Vineyard Systems Advisor with the University of California Cooperative Extension. With economic pressures, market shifts, and operational challenges affecting vineyard owners across the industry, temporarily idling a vineyard can feel like a practical option — but it comes with important agronomic, legal, and financial considerations. Dr. Chen brings a research-based, boots-on-the-ground perspective to the conversation, helping listeners...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
Growers are turning to AI for vineyard advice — but what happens when the algorithms get it wrong? In this episode, Fritz sits down with Texas A&M Extension Viticulture Specialist Dr. Justin Scheiner to put artificial intelligence to the test and reveal where it helps…and where it falls flat. Fritz and Justin walk through real vineyard questions — on pruning cuts, choosing between cane and spur pruning, designing an effective spray program, and diagnosing puzzling leaf symptoms — then grade the answers provided by AI tools like ChatGPT and Copilot. Justin explains why, despite its...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
Fritz welcomes longtime colleague and respected viticulture authority Larry Bettiga in this episode for an in-depth look at the evolution of Monterey County’s wine industry. With more than four decades of experience, Larry offers a rare, firsthand perspective on how the region transformed from scattered early vineyards into one of the country’s most significant cool-climate grape-growing areas. Larry explains how Monterey’s dramatic coastal influence, daily wind patterns, and diverse soils shaped both the opportunities and challenges for growers. He and Fritz unpack the early years of...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
Voles, gophers, and ground squirrels are more than a nuisance — they can devastate vineyards if left unchecked. In this episode, host Fritz Westover sits down with Kelly Mulville of Paicines Ranch and Newt Wimer, an agricultural innovator, to discuss practical, sustainable ways to manage these vertebrate pests. Kelly shares his firsthand experience with a sudden vole outbreak at Paicines Ranch — one of the worst he’s ever seen — and explains how quickly the damage escalated. He walks through the telltale signs of vole damage, how girdling kills vines, and why population cycles and...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
In this episode, Fritz sits down with Callil Capuozzo, the founder and owner of Overhead Vineyards in coastal Rhode Island. Callil shares his unique journey from industrial designer to vineyard owner and walks through the challenges of starting a vineyard on existing farmland. The conversation explores the critical early decisions in vineyard development — from soil sampling and drainage considerations to choosing trellis systems that suit humid, fog-prone climates. Callil’s experiment with a pergola-style trellis, inspired by traditional Albarino vineyards in Rías Baixas, Spain, sparks a...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
In this episode of Vineyard Underground, Fritz welcomes Dustin Hooper, Vice President of Sales at Sunridge Nurseries, to take listeners behind the scenes of how grapevines are made. While growers see the final product when vines arrive at their vineyard, there’s a fascinating process that begins long before planting — starting with certified mother vines and continuing through propagation, grafting, greenhouse production, and certification. Dustin shares his personal journey into the nursery business and offers an insider’s perspective on the complexities of producing clean, reliable...
info_outlineVineyard Underground
In this episode of Vineyard Underground, Fritz continues his conversation with winemaker and Inside Winemaking podcast host Jim Duane on what it takes for grape growers to successfully step into winemaking. Following part one, which covered equipment, compliance, and basic chemistry, part two dives deeper into the realities of balancing vineyard management with winery responsibilities. Fritz and Jim explore how harvest decisions shift when you’re making wine from your own fruit, weighing risks like weather and pests against the pursuit of higher quality. Jim shares how winemakers must...
info_outlineIn this episode, we welcome Hilary Graves, Vineyard and Grower Relations Manager at Booker Wines, to discuss how she successfully transitioned an Organic vineyard to regenerative organic certification. With over 20 years of field experience on California’s Central Coast, Hilary brings practical strategies and candid stories about what it really takes to move beyond standard organic practices.
Hilary explains the core pillars of regenerative organic certification — soil health, social fairness, and animal welfare — and why she and the team at Booker Wines chose to pursue this path. She walks listeners through how integrating multi-species cover crops, implementing low-till and no-till practices, and bringing in grazing livestock have helped improve soil structure, increase water retention, and reduce reliance on inputs. Fritz and Hilary also dig into the challenges of vineyard mechanization on steep terrain, minimizing tractor passes, and creative pest control strategies, including releasing predatory lacewings by drone to combat leafhoppers.
Whether you’re already farming organically or just exploring what’s next, this episode offers tangible examples of how even small changes can drive long-term benefits for your soil, your business, and the environment.
In this episode, you will hear:
-
The difference between organic and regenerative organic certification
-
How to build a diverse cover crop blend (and why 15 species might be better than five)
-
Using a Yeomans plow to increase water infiltration without disturbing soil structure
-
Grazing sheep for cover crop termination in a mutually beneficial partnership
-
Why releasing beneficial insects by drone can outpace traditional sprays for pest control
Follow and Review:
If you enjoyed this episode, be sure to follow the podcast and leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts! Your support helps us reach more listeners. 💜 Click the ‘+’ in the top right corner of Apple Podcasts to follow now.
Resources:
Schedule your 15-minute FREE vineyard help call with Fritz for the week of August 25th at www.virtualviticultureacademy.com/call.
Join Fritz live to learn about What Our Grapevine Leaves Are Telling Us – Diagnosing & Treating Symptoms on August 26, 2025 | 5:00-6:30 PM CST. Register for FREE - www.virtualviticultureacademy.com/symptons.
If you’re starting a vineyard or thinking about starting a vineyard, visit VirtualViticulureAcademy.com/growsmart to get Fritz’s online Prospective Winegrape Grower Course to help you get your vineyard planned and planted correctly from the start. Use the code PODCAST at checkout to save $89.00 as a thank you for being a podcast listener.
If you have questions about today’s episode or ideas for future episodes, go to VineyardUndergroundPodcast.com and click the Ask Fritz button.
Today’s Guest:
Hilary Graves is a winegrower, winemaker, and viticulture educator with more than 20 years of field experience on California’s Central Coast. She currently works as the Vineyard & Grower Relations Manager for Booker Wines in Paso Robles, CA.
Connect with Hilary and learn more about Booker Wines - https://www.bookerwines.com or follow her at https://www.instagram.com/hilarysgraves/ or https://www.instagram.com/bookervineyard/
Episode Sponsor:
Today’s episode was brought to you by Clemens Technologies.
Clemens Technologies is the market leader in machinery for all elements of vineyard management. Visit https://www.clemens-online.com/us/ and provide the code UNDERGROUND to receive 5% off your order of in-stock machinery. Or reach out to Thomas Clemens directly at thomas@clemens-america.com with any questions.
Episode Credits:
If you like this podcast and are thinking of creating your own, consider talking to my producer, Emerald City Productions. They helped me grow and produce the podcast you are listening to right now. Find out more at https://emeraldcitypro.com. Let them know we sent you.