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Finger Tendons with Tyler Nelson

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Release Date: 04/19/2025

Metabolic Flexibility and Tendons with Dr. Mike T. Nelson show art Metabolic Flexibility and Tendons with Dr. Mike T. Nelson

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background of Dr. Mike T Nelson 03:08 Understanding Metabolic Flexibility 06:08 The Role of Carbohydrates and Fats in Metabolism 09:00 Cellular Energy and Performance 12:04 Testing Metabolic Flexibility 14:48 The Impact of Insulin and Glucose on Metabolism 18:02 Advanced Glycation End Products and Tendon Health 20:59 Maintaining Metabolic Flexibility through Training and Nutrition 37:54 Metabolic Flexibility and Blood Work 41:25 The Impact of Carbohydrates on Metabolic Health 43:00 Obesity and Its Effects on Metabolic Flexibility 47:53 GLP-1 Drugs and Their Role...

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Hip and Groin Rehab with Enda King show art Hip and Groin Rehab with Enda King

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Understanding Adductor Tendinopathy 02:34 Differentiating Acute and Chronic Groin Injuries 05:32 The Role of Loading in Rehabilitation 08:46 Personal Experiences with Groin Pain 11:47 Challenges in Diagnosis and Management 14:34 The Importance of Functional Deficits 17:42 Individualized Rehabilitation Approaches 20:46 The Impact of Foot and Ankle on Hip Pain 35:30 Understanding Groin Pain in Athletes 41:25 The Role of Anatomy and Hip Mobility 48:07 Managing Training Loads and Injury Prevention 51:34 Biomechanics and Movement Strategies 57:21 Injury Prevention Strategies for...

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Bilateral Patellar Tendon Rupture Story with Jack Davey show art Bilateral Patellar Tendon Rupture Story with Jack Davey

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 02:21 The Journey to Strongman Competitions 05:14 The Day of the Injury 08:29 Emergency Response and Diagnosis 11:38 Surgery and Recovery Process 14:35 Rehabilitation and Progression 17:26 Returning to Training and Coaching 20:30 Challenges and Adjustments in Recovery 23:35 Current Status and Future Goals 28:56 Rehabilitation Journey: Progressing Through Pain 36:03 Building Strength: The Path to Recovery 42:48 Managing Daily Life: Coping with Stiffness and Pain 51:15 Reflections on Injury: Lessons Learned and Future Goals 58:22 Adapting Training:...

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Achilles Tendons with Seth O'Neill show art Achilles Tendons with Seth O'Neill

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Seth O'Neill's Background and Expertise 01:34 Understanding Achilles Tendon Problems 02:26 The Role of the Plantaris in Achilles Tendinopathy 07:04 The Importance of the Soleus Muscle 16:15 PhD Research on Soleus and Achilles Tendon Rehabilitation 19:43 Calf Muscle Loads and Performance 22:13 Internal vs External Loads in Rehabilitation 30:43 Rehabilitation Focus: Dorsiflexion vs Plantar Flexion 37:27 Identifying Deficits in Performance Testing 39:53 Understanding Muscle Weakness and Performance Misconceptions 40:58 Concentric vs Eccentric Training in Rehabilitation 42:29...

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Achilles and Patellar Tendons with Trent Salo show art Achilles and Patellar Tendons with Trent Salo

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background of Trent Saylo 02:16 Journey into Basketball and Physical Therapy 05:20 Transition to Specializing in Tendons 08:06 Research Initiatives at IMG Academy 10:11 Understanding Tendon Health and Assessment 13:13 Utilizing Advanced Imaging Techniques 16:14 The Role of Structure in Tendon Health 19:25 Navigating the Divisive Nature of Imaging in Tendon Care 22:16 Communicating Imaging Results to Patients 25:21 Case Studies and Practical Applications of UTC 33:06 Exploring UTC in Clinical Practice 36:22 Understanding Tendon Injuries and Healing 41:12 The Role...

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Deceleration and Achilles Ruptures in Basketball with Adam Petway show art Deceleration and Achilles Ruptures in Basketball with Adam Petway

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background of Adam Petway 02:45 The Intersection of Basketball and Biomechanics 05:44 Deceleration Strategies in Basketball 08:28 The Importance of Acceleration in Deceleration 11:30 Injury Mechanisms: ACL and Achilles Tendon Ruptures 14:30 Research Findings on Achilles Tendon Ruptures 17:41 Conclusions and Future Directions 35:49 Understanding False Steps in Sports Injury Prevention 39:19 The Mechanics of Achilles Tendon Ruptures 42:32 Exploring Injury Patterns and Risk Factors 47:00 The Role of Previous Injuries in Achilles Ruptures 51:12 Chronic Pain and Its...

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ACLs, Quads, and Knee Tendons with Erik Meira show art ACLs, Quads, and Knee Tendons with Erik Meira

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Erik Meira and His Background 02:39 The Journey into Physical Therapy 05:51 Transitioning from Hip to ACL Focus 08:50 Understanding ACL Rehabilitation Challenges 12:01 The Role of the Quadriceps in Recovery 14:49 Pain Management and the Nervous System 17:40 Graft Types and Their Impact on Recovery 20:47 Exploring Force Output and Pain Inhibition 23:57 Warm-Up Strategies and Moment Arm Mechanics 26:39 Practical Applications in Rehabilitation 31:52 Phases of Rehabilitation 36:52 Understanding Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training 45:42 The Role of Pain and Function...

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Lateral Gastrocnemius in Achilles Tendinopathy with Gabriel Fernandes show art Lateral Gastrocnemius in Achilles Tendinopathy with Gabriel Fernandes

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gabriel Fernandes and His Work 03:51 Exploring the Role of the Soleus in Achilles Tendinopathy 11:56 Investigating the Lateral Gastrocnemius and Its Implications 18:30 Understanding Muscle Fatigue and Endurance in Running 34:14 Practical Applications for Rehabilitation and Training 37:49 Cortical Inhibition and Tendinopathy 39:27 Deficits in Endurance and Peak Force 40:48 Measuring Muscle Capacity and Joint Angles 43:13 Hypertrophy and Muscle Adaptation 45:57 Atrophy in Calf Muscles 49:23 Rehabilitation Strategies for Lateral Gastroc 53:03 Foot Positioning and...

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Peroneal and Tibialis Posterior Tendons with Blake Withers show art Peroneal and Tibialis Posterior Tendons with Blake Withers

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 The Role of Podiatry in Rehabilitation 01:19 Exploring the Peroneal and Tibialis Posterior Tendons 04:25 Phases of Tendon Rehabilitation 07:14 Differentiating Tendon Injuries 10:30 The Importance of Accurate Diagnosis 24:12 Exploring Treatment Options for Tendon Pain 32:36 Understanding Orthotics and Their Role in Recovery 41:43 The Importance of Taping Techniques 44:29 Footwear Considerations for Pain Management 51:49 Differential Diagnosis in Tendon Pain 57:06 Understanding Insertional Pain and Loading Programs 58:14 The Role of Training Load in Running Injuries 01:00:03...

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Rectus Femoris and Soleus Aponeurosis Injuries with Filippo Tilli show art Rectus Femoris and Soleus Aponeurosis Injuries with Filippo Tilli

Jacked Athlete Podcast

Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Myotendinous Junction Injuries 00:08 Pain Perception in Soleus Injuries 21:28 Rehabilitation Protocols for Soleus Injuries   Takeaways Misdiagnosis is a significant issue in myotendinous injuries. Education is crucial for effective injury management. The rectus femoris has a complex three-layer structure. Proximal muscle action is like a whip, while distal action generates force. MRI is the gold standard for assessing injuries. Pain often manifests after activity, not during. Aponeurotic tissue requires longer healing times than muscle injuries. Tendon and...

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More Episodes

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Finger Tendons and Climbing Injuries
03:13 Understanding Finger Anatomy and Function
06:02 Common Finger Injuries in Climbers
08:53 Pathophysiology of Tenosynovitis
12:06 Rehabilitation Strategies for Finger Injuries
15:04 Comparing Tenosynovitis and Pulley Injuries
17:56 Managing Climbing Volume and Injury Prevention
25:38 Understanding Power Loss in Climbing
29:27 Tendon Adaptation Through Lifelong Loading
33:22 Rehabilitation Challenges for Climbers
35:05 The Role of Strength Training in Climbing
37:10 Tendon Adaptation Mechanisms
38:56 Controversies in Climbing Training Methods
41:07 Ultrasound in Diagnosing Climbing Injuries
42:22 Using Strain Gauges for Performance Measurement
43:53 Understanding Pulley Ruptures
45:36 Rehabilitation Techniques for Finger Tendons
47:14 Thumb Tendon Issues in Climbers
49:09 Future Directions in Climbing Research
50:07 Finding Professional Help in Climbing Rehabilitation

 

Takeaways

  • Tyler Nelson has a doctorate in chiropractic and a master's in tendon research.
  • Rock climbers often experience finger injuries due to overtraining.
  • Finger tendons are unique in their anatomy and function compared to other tendons.
  • Tenosynovitis is a common injury among climbers, often due to too much stress too soon.
  • Rehabilitation for finger injuries should focus on gradual load increase and proper technique.
  • The A2 pulley is crucial for finger movement and is often injured in climbers.
  • Climbers need to be aware of the specific loads their fingers endure during training.
  • Managing climbing volume is essential to prevent injuries in climbers.
  • The tendon sheath plays a vital role in the health of finger tendons.
  • Understanding the mechanics of finger tendons can aid in better training and injury prevention. Power loss is a key metric in understanding climbing performance.
  • Beginners should focus on skill development rather than overloading their fingers.
  • Body weight significantly affects the load on tendons during climbing.
  • Lifelong loading is crucial for tendon adaptations in climbers.
  • Climbers often underload their tendons during rehabilitation, leading to prolonged recovery.
  • Strength training is essential for injury prevention and performance enhancement in climbing.
  • Tendon adaptations require significant muscle load and proper joint positioning.
  • Controversial training methods are gaining popularity, but their efficacy is debated.
  • Ultrasound is the gold standard for diagnosing climbing injuries and assessing tendon health.
  • There is a growing interest in climbing research, leading to better understanding and treatment of climbing-related injuries.

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Website: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com

Notes: https://jackedathlete.com/podcast-142-finger-tendons-with-tyler-nelson/