Finger Tendons with Tyler Nelson
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Finger Tendons and Climbing Injuries 03:13 Understanding Finger Anatomy and Function 06:02 Common Finger Injuries in Climbers 08:53 Pathophysiology of Tenosynovitis 12:06 Rehabilitation Strategies for Finger Injuries 15:04 Comparing Tenosynovitis and Pulley Injuries 17:56 Managing Climbing Volume and Injury Prevention 25:38 Understanding Power Loss in Climbing 29:27 Tendon Adaptation Through Lifelong Loading 33:22 Rehabilitation Challenges for Climbers 35:05 The Role of Strength Training in Climbing 37:10 Tendon Adaptation Mechanisms 38:56 Controversies in...
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Hamstrings and Hamstring Tendons with Johan Lahti
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Hamstrings and Johan's Background 03:11 Functional Anatomy of the Hamstrings 06:13 Complexity of Hamstring Function and Evolution 09:06 Injury Mechanisms and Proximal vs Distal Injuries 12:02 Fatigue and Its Impact on Hamstring Injuries 15:04 Sport-Specific Hamstring Injury Risks 18:12 Rehabilitation and Development of Hamstrings 32:55 Understanding Hamstring Function and Training 37:13 The Importance of Hamstring Strength and Conditioning 42:00 Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation Strategies 46:14 Common Mistakes in Hamstring Rehabilitation 52:29 Optimizing...
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Rotator Cuff Tendons with Jared Powell
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Rotator Cuff Tendinopathy 03:13 Understanding Shoulder Pain and Its Complexities 06:04 The Shift from Impingement to Rotator Cuff Related Pain 09:00 The Role of Imaging in Shoulder Pain Diagnosis 11:58 Common Mismanagement in Shoulder Pain Treatment 15:10 Loading Programs for Rotator Cuff Rehabilitation 18:04 Positional vs. Energy Storage Tendons 20:59 The Nature of Rotator Cuff Tears 24:07 The Tipping Point to Pain in Rotator Cuff Pathology 32:53 Understanding Rotator Cuff Tears 39:26 The Role of Exercise in Recovery 46:47 Pain Management and Rehabilitation...
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Tendons with Chris Johnson
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Chris Johnson and Tendon Rehabilitation 03:08 Understanding Exercise Monotherapy in Tendon Rehab 05:48 The Importance of Loading in Tendon Recovery 08:56 Chris's Journey and Mentorship in Physical Therapy 12:11 Rehabilitation Insights from ACL Injuries 14:56 Exploring Patellar Tendinopathy and Its Variants 17:55 Differentiating Tendon Pain in Athletes 20:59 Pain Management and Acceptable Levels in Rehab 23:47 The Role of Isometrics in Tendon Rehabilitation 26:58 The Debate on Pain Levels in Tendon Rehab 30:03 Conclusions and Future Directions in Tendon Rehab...
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Tendons with Taylor Starch
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Tendons and Human Performance 06:31 Understanding Tendon Injuries and Variability 12:32 The Complexity of Connective Tissue 18:06 Innovative Approaches to Tendon Training 27:55 High Intensity vs. Low Intensity Training for Tendons 30:40 Understanding Tendon Strain in Endurance Athletes 33:21 Connective Tissue Behavior and Injury Prevention 36:52 The Role of Genetics and Abnormal Connective Tissue 39:45 Assessing and Training Connective Tissue 43:11 Restoring Normal Connective Tissue Architecture 46:59 Manipulating Load, Length, and Time for Adaptation 50:40...
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Tendons with Alex Nelson
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Tendinopathy and Personal Journey 02:46 Understanding Tendinopathy: Inflammation vs. Degeneration 06:02 The Role of Isometrics in Tendon Rehabilitation 09:10 Muscle Function vs. Tendon Focus in Rehabilitation 11:50 Managing Load: Balancing Pain and Progress 15:07 Powerlifting and Tendinopathy: A Unique Perspective 17:54 Biomechanics and Chronic Workload in Tendon Pain 32:51 Understanding Tendon Biomechanics 34:10 Mismanagement of Tendon Injuries 37:24 The Importance of Progressive Loading 39:07 Transitioning to Remote Rehabilitation 41:03 The Role of Imaging in...
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Gluteal and Rotator Cuff Tendons with Byron Miller
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Byron Miller and His Journey 03:07 Understanding Tendinopathy and Its Evolution 05:51 The Shift from Traditional Views to Modern Understanding 08:53 Personal Experiences with Tendinopathy 11:50 The Role of Loading in Tendon Rehabilitation 14:59 Practical Approaches to Tendon Treatment 18:09 The Importance of Patient Education and Lifestyle Adjustments 30:55 Optimizing Recovery and Load Management 33:53 Rehabilitation Insights for Rotator Cuff Injuries 37:44 The Importance of Loading in Shoulder Rehabilitation 41:38 Understanding Rotator Cuff Functionality 46:14...
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Tendons with Steven Sahyoun
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Setting the Scene 00:54 Steven's Journey into Strength and Conditioning 01:59 The Achilles Rupture Experience 11:57 Rehabilitation Insights and Lessons Learned 19:59 Exploring Patellar Tendon Issues 28:01 Understanding Elbow Tendon Pain 34:24 Managing Injury and Recovery Strategies 36:07 The Journey of Overcoming Adductor Injuries 48:06 Rehabilitation Techniques for Achilles Tendon Injuries 57:23 Understanding Elbow Tendinopathy and Rehabilitation Takeaways Steven's passion for coaching was ignited by his own injury. The Achilles rupture experience was a...
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Metabolic Tendons with Derek Griffin
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Derek Griffin and His Expertise 02:46 Understanding Tendinopathy and Pain Mechanisms 05:52 The Role of Subgrouping in Tendinopathy 08:59 Clinical Insights on Tendon Pain 11:53 Metabolic Factors Influencing Tendon Health 14:58 The Impact of Aging on Tendon Sensitivity 17:51 Exploring Systemic Risk Factors for Tendinopathy 21:07 The Connection Between Tendinopathy and Multi-Site Pain 23:55 Fluoroquinolones and Tendon Health 30:13 Understanding Tendinopathy and Antibiotics 31:49 Autoimmune Conditions and Tendinopathy 33:32 Screening for Inflammatory Factors 36:26...
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Elbow Tendons with Mike Carroll
Jacked Athlete Podcast
Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Audio Quality Discussion 01:12 Mike Carroll's Background and Expertise 02:46 Building a Social Media Presence in Golf Training 05:06 Interest in Tendon Injuries and Collaboration with Keith Barr 08:29 Understanding Tendon Injuries in Golfers 14:11 The Impact of Training Load on Elbow Injuries 20:47 Differences in Stress from Swinging Techniques 25:06 Chronic Adaptation and Injury Prevention 31:35 Injury Management and Treatment Options 32:51 Understanding Elbow Injuries in Golfers 37:02 Rehabilitation Strategies for Elbow Tendon Injuries 46:10 The Role of...
info_outlineChapters
00:00 Introduction to Finger Tendons and Climbing Injuries
03:13 Understanding Finger Anatomy and Function
06:02 Common Finger Injuries in Climbers
08:53 Pathophysiology of Tenosynovitis
12:06 Rehabilitation Strategies for Finger Injuries
15:04 Comparing Tenosynovitis and Pulley Injuries
17:56 Managing Climbing Volume and Injury Prevention
25:38 Understanding Power Loss in Climbing
29:27 Tendon Adaptation Through Lifelong Loading
33:22 Rehabilitation Challenges for Climbers
35:05 The Role of Strength Training in Climbing
37:10 Tendon Adaptation Mechanisms
38:56 Controversies in Climbing Training Methods
41:07 Ultrasound in Diagnosing Climbing Injuries
42:22 Using Strain Gauges for Performance Measurement
43:53 Understanding Pulley Ruptures
45:36 Rehabilitation Techniques for Finger Tendons
47:14 Thumb Tendon Issues in Climbers
49:09 Future Directions in Climbing Research
50:07 Finding Professional Help in Climbing Rehabilitation
Takeaways
- Tyler Nelson has a doctorate in chiropractic and a master's in tendon research.
- Rock climbers often experience finger injuries due to overtraining.
- Finger tendons are unique in their anatomy and function compared to other tendons.
- Tenosynovitis is a common injury among climbers, often due to too much stress too soon.
- Rehabilitation for finger injuries should focus on gradual load increase and proper technique.
- The A2 pulley is crucial for finger movement and is often injured in climbers.
- Climbers need to be aware of the specific loads their fingers endure during training.
- Managing climbing volume is essential to prevent injuries in climbers.
- The tendon sheath plays a vital role in the health of finger tendons.
- Understanding the mechanics of finger tendons can aid in better training and injury prevention. Power loss is a key metric in understanding climbing performance.
- Beginners should focus on skill development rather than overloading their fingers.
- Body weight significantly affects the load on tendons during climbing.
- Lifelong loading is crucial for tendon adaptations in climbers.
- Climbers often underload their tendons during rehabilitation, leading to prolonged recovery.
- Strength training is essential for injury prevention and performance enhancement in climbing.
- Tendon adaptations require significant muscle load and proper joint positioning.
- Controversial training methods are gaining popularity, but their efficacy is debated.
- Ultrasound is the gold standard for diagnosing climbing injuries and assessing tendon health.
- There is a growing interest in climbing research, leading to better understanding and treatment of climbing-related injuries.
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Website: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com
Notes: https://jackedathlete.com/podcast-142-finger-tendons-with-tyler-nelson/