Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 01/02/2022
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training...
info_outline
#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force...
info_outline
#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of...
info_outline
#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest...
info_outline
#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!...
info_outline
#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and...
info_outline
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY...
info_outline
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you...
info_outline
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season! 2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins. 4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing...
info_outline
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors...
info_outlineIn this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
RUNDOWN
0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one!
1:00 - Why most people fail with their New Year's Resolutions and goals.
2:40 - My unpublished book manuscript "Mental Wings" -- about how all performance is brain-based...and begins with the quality of your thoughts.
3:50 - My most powerful published book is "Maximum Climbing". Available from Amazon.com and PhysiVantage.com
5:00 - I'm passionate about inspiring you...and helping you become the best climber you can be...and to see you live your dream life!
6:30 - What are the biggest factors...and limiting constraints on your progress in climbing (and other life endeavors)?
7:50 - Your THOUGHTS are EVERYTHING! Who and what controls your thoughts minute by minute?
10:45 - Exercise: List 5 or 10 things you would attempt to do if you were assured you could not fail?
11:25 - Exercise: Create a list of things you fear...bad habits...and other things that are holding you back...tethering you to living in a state of status quo.
12:30 - STEP #1: Change is a MUST! All improvement in climbing (or life) begins with a decision that change and improvement is a MUST!
13:20 - Creating leverage for making the (painful) changes that are essential for leveling your situation.
16:00 - The "Feedforward" Exercise...for identifying a meaningful step to take TODAY to advance you toward your goals.
18:30 - Mental Wings principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do."
24:10 - The power of becoming a "practical non-conformist".
29:30 - Step #2: Set compelling goals.
31:00 - 6 steps for effective goal setting...and achievement!
34:30 - Introducing PhysiVantage Europe! We are proud to partner with the EPIC-TV shop to bring performance nutrition to European climbers.
36:15 - Step #3: Make Every Day Count
38:00 - Enjoy this moment--every moment!--because this moment is a piece of your life that you'll never get back.
39:20 - Do you ever feel like there's not enough time in the day?
42:35 - What are your time black holes?
45:00 - Exercise: Track your time use (from waking up) for at least 3 days. Be accurate in documenting your "time-wasting" activities?
48:00 - The importance of developing a personal time-management system. You must not just let your day unfold without intention...and a schedule for taking some meaningful action towards your goals.
52:10 - Concluding thoughts...and wishes for your grand success in the New Year!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing