Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 04/11/2024

#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 03/11/2024

#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there’s your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that’s got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip. It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we’ll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance. So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip? 3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness". 6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance. 8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin. 9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts. 10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations! 14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers? 16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful? 19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip. 21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development. 22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing. 24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk. 25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc. 28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin. 31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing. 31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc. 35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes *** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at with checkout code: T4C15 *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/30291748

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 02/01/2024

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever! 3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024? 7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success." 10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back. 15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program. 21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan 22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal. 29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down. 40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst 40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers. 46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. 51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes. 1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area. 1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows. 1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/29743288

#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 01/03/2024

#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year! 0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections! 3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies 5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine! 12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the 14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts 18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential. 19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences. 22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward. 23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear. 26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits. 27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger. 29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind. 30:20 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff! 33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity). 35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time. 36:55 - #13: Enjoy this moment—this moment is your life. 37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe. 38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made. 40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!) 42:00 - Send off! A word from this podcast's sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/29313928

#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 12/04/2023

#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 11/07/2023

#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains 3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing! 3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session. 5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself. 9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming” training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip. - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). 14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury. 22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan (i.e. copy cat training) 25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses. 31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training. 39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage. 42:00 - Summary thoughts. Please check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/28539026

#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 10/02/2023

#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY 1 (abridged) 7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl 7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers. 9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA) 10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers 11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom. 13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps? 15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers 17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders) DAY 2 (abridged) 18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline 22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction 23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts 24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers 27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse DAY 3 (abridged) 30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. 31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance 32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness 32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. 33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance. 36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/28167956

#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 09/11/2023

#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 08/22/2023

#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 07/10/2023

#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 06/06/2023

#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of 21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 - Episode Sponsor: -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/27054009

#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 05/09/2023

#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on. I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study. 2:40 - The backstory... 4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me! 6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits. 7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it". 8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb... 9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong". 9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope! 13:25 - The process, in detail. 15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!) 17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope 18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project... 20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away... 22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj. 24:00 - Send go #1 25:15 - A small, but vital discovery... 26:28 - Send go #2 -- 29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond). 31:00 - Question: Why do we climb? 31:40 - Closing comments. 31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/26776509

#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 04/10/2023

#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? 03/06/2023

#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome 1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing". 2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes... 4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance 5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises. 8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness. 9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation. 11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio. 13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy. 14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing. Running will not improve your climbing technique/skill. Running will accelerate your recovery at mid-climb rests and between exercises and climbs. Running will increase stamina for long days of bouldering, training, and climbing. Running can help optimize your body composition, thus increasing your strength-to-weight ratio. Running can improve mood and energy. Running (or other cardio exercises) must be done at moderate intensity and duration. 2 to 4 days per week for 20 to 40 minutes each. Run on rest days from climbing, or as part of a 2-a-day workout schedule. Do NOT let your running (or other cardio) escalate to excessive amounts that create excessive fatigue or take away from climbing time. 20:20 - Episode Sponsor: -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 21:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/26130798

#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You 02/07/2023

#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance. 2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance. 2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing. 5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast: Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber...and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach. Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general. Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance. Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber? 6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport. 10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal? 18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal? 30:15 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport? 37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance? 40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items. 43:30 - Best best climber in the world is.... 43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 44:00 - Check out -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). 44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/25849575

#83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve Greatly 01/06/2023

#82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 12/13/2022

#82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make! Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals! RUNDOWN 00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more! 03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings). 05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks. 08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains. 14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency. 18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months. 21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain). 25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals. 28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success: 29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!" 31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/25307295

#81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2) 10/25/2022

#81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2) You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance? This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit. RUNDOWN 0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast 1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session. 2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details. 6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day. 10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes. 16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message. Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever) Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/24785091

#80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1) 10/05/2022

#80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1) Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation. 0:25 - Intro to the new "FLASH edition" of the Training For Climbing podcast 1:30 - TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior) 3:12 - Part #1 - The goals of weekday training....and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to "peak" for weekend sending. 4:50 - Part #2 - What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that's two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)....this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you? 8:32 - Part #3 - The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you're NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important -- sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors. 11:00 - Wrap up and sponsor message. Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever) Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/24588051

Episode #79 - 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! 09/14/2022

Episode #79 - 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Endure X! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and 32:45 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:15 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:13 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 44:35 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 45:45 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 50:45 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:00 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 54:45 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:15 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:10 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter or on the Training for Climbing Instagram or PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/24362214

Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future! 08/11/2022

Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future! This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric. 1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present. 2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the in Spring 2022. 3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. 5:45 - Interview begins... 8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present. 15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training. 18:20 - Finger strength training past and present. 22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming. 24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases. 30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training). 32:30 - Performance profiling and testing. 36:00 - Movement quality assessment. 37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos. 40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond! 41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more. 43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often! 44:10 - "Copy cat" training. 45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends". 48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training). 49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results. 50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside. 53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too! 55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons. 1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall. 1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich. 1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance. 1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers. 1:10:25 - About launching , the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers. 1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/24010464

Episode #77: Climbing Tactics & Pro Climber Analysis 07/11/2022

Episode #77: Climbing Tactics & Pro Climber Analysis Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst’s analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more! This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it’s really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this episode on climbing tactics 2:00 - Eric remarks about Ryan Devlin’s new podcast, 3:08 – My analysis episode of . 3:40 – Backstory on my enduring interest in climbing…and training for climbing! 6:50 – My personal struggles… 10:00 – Generally, some of the most vital tactics of the pros involve strategies to acquire higher efficiency in their climbing. 11:25 – Using “reframing” as a mental tactic to overcome their struggles. Mental toughness is a superpower of these pro climbers. 13:00 – Developing “mental agility” is central to the goal pursuit of top pros. 15:20 – Recreational climbers share many of the same struggles as the pros! 16:26 – Analysis of Emily Harrington’s comments on free climbing El Capitan’s Golden Gate. Efficiency is everything! (Well, almost.) 19:00 – Learn one way to train climbing efficiency at the gym… 21:10 – Pursue efficiency (and recovery!) when climbing outdoors! 23:15 – Analysis of Kevin Jorgenson’s epic struggle—and win!—on the crux pitch of Dawn Wall. 24:40 – Problem solving tactics that we can apply to our climbing… 30:20 – Sometimes it takes a one-off novel tactic to send! (Emily Harrington adapting to the Monster Offwidth!) 32:00 – More gym training tactics for boulderers… 36:00 – The importance of taking breaks from project boulders/routes…to experience more “wins” and to remember the joy of climbing successes! 37:00 – View difficult days—the struggle—as both part of the process…and a “tuition” of sorts paid to become a better climber. 37:50 – Alex Megos projecting process often includes a route-specific training block. Perhaps, so should yours! 40:55 – Eric’s comments on the Alex Honnold interview…and his different approaches to sport climbing and trad (or solo) climbing. 42:35 – When it’s safe…become fully unbridled and climb until you fall…or send! 44:40 – Learning climbing tactics comes with experience--be patient and frequently challenge yourself with diverse climbing experiences, and you will become a master climber! 48:00 – Some of the common traits/strategies of the pros… 48:38 – 1. They have struggles—more than you may think! 49:35 – 2. Mental agility. Make a game out of problem solving and the process of sending. 50:30 – 3. Trust the process. Learn every day, act with intention, and believe in the end game! 51:20 – 4. Route-specific training…especially for long-haul projects. 52:00 – 5. Build a sport team…and remember to pay it back (or pay it forward)! 54:20 – Final comments about Eric’s multi-decade journey to have an impact on climbers around the world! PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers is the capstone of Eric’s climbing career. 58:20 – Wrap-up of this T4C podcast. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/23648903

Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending! 06/14/2022

Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending! Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most! In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour. You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing. 2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset. 5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think. 6:14 - Who controls your thinking? 8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today! 10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!" 11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful! 14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation. 15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation." 17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts. 18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily! *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance. 28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE! 29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks. 29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about beginner- and elite-level reframing. 31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation! 32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk. 34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing 35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending! 41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions. 46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- 46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project! 49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk 52:25 - Self-talk while you climb 55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy 57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk 59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk 1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk 1:09:50 - Final tips and comments PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! *** Support our sponsor! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/23420906

Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence 05/10/2022

Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course corrections, and elevate your performance. In this podcast, Coach Horst details six areas to strive for increased self-awareness in order to pursue excellence in climbing...and beyond. RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to leveling up your climbing in-season. 3:50 - It's the mind that matters most when it's "send day" for you at the boulders, crag, or in competition. 4:55 - Overview of self-awareness...and its importance in elevating performance. SIX AREAS TO INCREASE YOUR SELF-AWARENESS 11:53 - #1 is Self-Awareness of Your Thoughts 15:55 - Four techniques to exercise your self-awareness. Learn more about self-awareness and mental training for higher climbing performance in the book 18:00 - #2 is Self-Awareness of Body & Emotions 21:10 - #3 is Self-Awareness Your Strengths & Weaknesses 22:18 - Exercise: *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 24:36 - #4 is Self-Awareness of your Actions and Results 31:00 - #5 is Self-Awareness of your Self-Image 34:!5 - Learn how to reshape your self-image with techniques detailed in Chapter 11 of Training for Climbing. 34:30 - #6 is Self-Awareness of Your Values. 35:20 - 37:52 - Summary of tips and strategies to improve your self-awareness and elevate your performance. 40:50 - Final thoughts *** Support our sponsor! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/23057561

Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers 04/01/2022

Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Eric's Welcome! 4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips 6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock. 8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 10:15 - #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training. 13:30 - #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of. 17:02 - #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique. 19:40 - #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization. 23:00 - #7. Create a "seasonality" of your training/climbing system. 25:20 - #8. Employ brief periods of "overreach" training followed by a shorter spell of deload. 28:40 - #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings -- adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you're getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). 32:30 - #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job....yet! 34:15 - Intro to Elite-Level Training and Performance 36:00 - #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach...or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor. 38:40 - #2. Attack lingering weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 39:30 - Pro Tip...on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate 41:40 - #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts. 44:10 - #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training -- at least one session per week! 49:02 - #5. Commit to comprehensive core training -- high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance. 50:12 - #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions. 52:38 - #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse. 54:20 - #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance. 58:10 - #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. 1:01:45 - #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission! 1:06:20 - Summary comments. 1:07:00 - Support our sponsors, visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/22504493

Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1 03/07/2022

Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1 In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73. 5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing 9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term. 9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing) 10:30 - KISS 12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule" 14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing 15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed. 16:55 - The 80/20 Split 18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises 21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training 23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb 25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain 27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience 29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience) 30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques! 32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing 34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing! 36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split" 38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears. 40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations) 42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance. 44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills. 47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.) 53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/22331510

Episode #72: Training Case Studies - Part 2 02/14/2022

Episode #71: Training Case Studies - Part 1 02/07/2022

Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond! 01/02/2022

Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes 12/10/2021

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

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