Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 45 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage Nutrition. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 500,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

#113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up! 03/05/2025

#113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up! In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts , , and 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send! 27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to . Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/35538065

#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 02/04/2025

#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD. 2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory 3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance. 6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today. 7:35 - Tips for older climbers. 10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training. 11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts. 13:00 - Scheduling your workouts. 15:45 - Specificity of training. 17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset. 19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals. 21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting. 24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment. 27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes. 29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions. 30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks. 31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers. 33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting... 36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets. 38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers. 38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries... 40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals. 41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status. 42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training). 44:45 - Developing better recovery practices. 46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing. 46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential. 48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing! 50:35 - Wrap up 50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram 51:10 - Watch this interview on . Subscribe! 51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts 51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out! Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/35116735

#111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025! 01/07/2025

#110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025) 12/28/2024

#109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!) 12/11/2024

#109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!) The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more. Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new and . 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on . 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage . 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/34373165

#108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! 11/12/2024

#108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and 32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 51:03 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter or on the Training for Climbing Instagram or PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the and SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/33872017

#107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!) 10/08/2024

#106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance 10/03/2024

#105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends 09/17/2024

#104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids 09/10/2024

#103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years 09/04/2024

#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! 08/08/2024

#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine 07/09/2024

#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, (Instagram: ) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. ( is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/32064407

#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! 06/11/2024

#99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! 05/13/2024

#99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes? Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you! Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point. RUNDOWN 00:20 - Introduction 1:30 - Building on , my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. 2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance. 4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. 7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship. 10:00 - Heel structure and performance. 16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #". 18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit. 20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles. 22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes. 27:15 - Lined versus unlined? 29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)? 32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury. 33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance. 38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes. 40:20 - When to resole your shoes? 46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe? 52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO. Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/31212997

#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 04/11/2024

#97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 03/11/2024

#97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there’s your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that’s got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip. It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we’ll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance. So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip? 3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness". 6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance. 8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin. 9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts. 10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations! 14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers? 16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful? 19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip. 21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development. 22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing. 24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk. 25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc. 28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin. 31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing. 31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc. 35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes *** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at with checkout code: T4C15 *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/30291748

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 02/01/2024

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever! 3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024? 7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success." 10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back. 15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program. 21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan 22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal. 29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down. 40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst 40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers. 46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. 51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes. 1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area. 1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows. 1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on Thank you! , , , Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/29743288

#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 01/03/2024

#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year! 0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections! 3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies 5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine! 12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the 14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts 18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential. 19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences. 22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward. 23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear. 26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits. 27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger. 29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind. 30:20 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff! 33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity). 35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time. 36:55 - #13: Enjoy this moment—this moment is your life. 37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe. 38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made. 40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!) 42:00 - Send off! A word from this podcast's sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/29313928

#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 12/04/2023

#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 11/07/2023

#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains 3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing! 3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session. 5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself. 9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming” training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip. - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). 14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury. 22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan (i.e. copy cat training) 25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses. 31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training. 39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage. 42:00 - Summary thoughts. Please check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/28539026

#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 10/02/2023

#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY 1 (abridged) 7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl 7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers. 9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA) 10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers 11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom. 13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps? 15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers 17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders) DAY 2 (abridged) 18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline 22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction 23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts 24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers 27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse DAY 3 (abridged) 30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. 31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance 32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness 32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. 33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance. 36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/28167956

#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 09/11/2023

#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 08/22/2023

#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 07/10/2023

#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 06/06/2023

#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of 21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 - Episode Sponsor: -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/27054009

#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 05/09/2023

#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on. I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study. 2:40 - The backstory... 4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me! 6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits. 7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it". 8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb... 9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong". 9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope! 13:25 - The process, in detail. 15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!) 17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope 18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project... 20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away... 22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj. 24:00 - Send go #1 25:15 - A small, but vital discovery... 26:28 - Send go #2 -- 29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond). 31:00 - Question: Why do we climb? 31:40 - Closing comments. 31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Check out podcast sponsor -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/26776509

#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 04/10/2023

#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? 03/06/2023

#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome 1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing". 2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes... 4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance 5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises. 8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness. 9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation. 11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio. 13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy. 14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing. Running will not improve your climbing technique/skill. Running will accelerate your recovery at mid-climb rests and between exercises and climbs. Running will increase stamina for long days of bouldering, training, and climbing. Running can help optimize your body composition, thus increasing your strength-to-weight ratio. Running can improve mood and energy. Running (or other cardio exercises) must be done at moderate intensity and duration. 2 to 4 days per week for 20 to 40 minutes each. Run on rest days from climbing, or as part of a 2-a-day workout schedule. Do NOT let your running (or other cardio) escalate to excessive amounts that create excessive fatigue or take away from climbing time. 20:20 - Episode Sponsor: -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 21:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/26130798

#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You 02/07/2023

#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance. 2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance. 2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing. 5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast: Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber...and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach. Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general. Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance. Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber? 6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport. 10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal? 18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal? 30:15 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit or to get your PhysiVantage! 32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport? 37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance? 40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items. 43:30 - Best best climber in the world is.... 43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 44:00 - Check out -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: (North America only). 44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on Thank you! , , , Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Check out . And on Instagram at: Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. /episode/index/show/trainingforclimbing/id/25849575

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

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