Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 06/14/2022
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training...
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#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force...
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#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of...
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#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest...
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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!...
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#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and...
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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY...
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#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you...
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#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season! 2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins. 4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing...
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#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors...
info_outlineYour training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most!
In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour.
You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing.
2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset.
5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think.
6:14 - Who controls your thinking?
8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today!
10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!"
11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful!
14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation.
15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation."
17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts.
18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily!
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25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance.
28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE!
29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks.
29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about beginner- and elite-level reframing.
31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation!
32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk.
34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing
35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending!
41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions.
46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- Listen to 10 pro climber interviews!
46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project!
49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk
52:25 - Self-talk while you climb
55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy
57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk
59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk
1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk
1:09:50 - Final tips and comments
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Music by Misty Murphy
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