Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 08/11/2022
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training...
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#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force...
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#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of...
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#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest...
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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!...
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#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and...
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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY...
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#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you...
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#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season! 2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins. 4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing...
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#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors...
info_outlineThis episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!
RUNDOWN
0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.
1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present.
2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022.
3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >>
5:45 - Interview begins...
8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present.
15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training.
18:20 - Finger strength training past and present.
22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming.
24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases.
30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training).
32:30 - Performance profiling and testing.
36:00 - Movement quality assessment.
37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos.
40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond!
41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more.
43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often!
44:10 - "Copy cat" training.
45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends".
48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training).
49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results.
50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside.
53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too!
55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons.
1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall.
1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich.
1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance.
1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers.
1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers.
1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
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Music by Misty Murphy
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