Wine Industry at a Crossroads: Changing Tastes, AI, and Where the Money Goes

You can't speak of trends in the wine trends in the wine trade without mentioning Felicity Carter. You can't talk data mining in the wine trade without mentioning Felicity Carter...in fact, I can't think of many surrounding the wine trade that you could speak of without mentioning Felicity Carter. She is a force of date (substituting for "nature").

I've got to tell you, sitting down with Felicity Carter for this episode of Wine Talks was like uncorking an old Burgundy—layered, surprising, and deeply satisfying. There’s something about Felicity’s perspective that just sharpens the mind. Maybe it’s because she’s perched out there in Neustadt an der Weinstraße, on the wine road of the Rhineland Pfalz, right at the border with Alsace. Or maybe it’s just down to the years she’s logged at the intersection of writing, advisory work, and researching high-end wine trends.

You know me—I love a guest who isn’t afraid to press into the hard truths and then turn them over like a newly racked barrel. Felicity didn’t disappoint. Right out of the gate, she set the tone: before you start spinning stories about your wine, you better know your cost of goods. Learn Excel, she said. It wasn’t fancy, but, boy, did that resonate with me. Nothing romantic about spreadsheets, but there’s also nothing more sobering than realizing that most people in this business skip the basics.

What I really appreciated was how Felicity drew a line in the sand about the current state of the wine industry—not just saying “it’s tough out there” (though it surely is), but also peeling back the bigger picture. She’s got this knack for linking what we see at the store or on Instagram right back to seismic shifts underway. She brought up this old book, “The Empty Raincoat” by Charles Handy, to frame what’s happening now: the wine industry is at the tail end of a 40-year golden run and we’re sliding into a new, uncertain era. It reminded me of my own business, the highs of 2007, and how everything since then feels like riding out after a storm, trying to read new winds that keep shifting.

Felicity didn’t shy from the stickier discussions either—like the damage done by “mummy juice” wines and those forgettable bulk bottles that flooded the market in a misguided effort to market to women. She’s got strong opinions on that, and so do I. We both bemoaned how those wines aimed at mothers after a long day might have alienated a generation—or at least set the table for younger drinkers to turn their noses up at what their parents drank.

And while I always want to reach for the romance of wine—the history, the sense of being part of something ancient—Felicity was bracing with her take: people buy wine because they like the taste and the fit, and they make up the romance later, mostly to themselves. We commiserated over antiques collecting dust—literally and figuratively—in our homes, the same way “tradition” can just become a nice story rather than a selling point.

But here’s what I loved: Felicity isn’t a doomsayer. Sure, the wine industry is congested. Sure, Gen Z might be drinking less wine—maybe because, as Felicity points out, no one wants to do what their mother did—but she still sees opportunity. There’s hope in innovation, in making products for new tastes, and, yes, in getting our business basics right. If you want to make money in wine, she says, embrace the numbers before the stories.

And I have to agree. At the end of the day, Felicity brought the clarity that’s so easy to miss when we get caught up in the swirl of nostalgia. Sometimes you need someone to remind you that, yes, wine is culture, and yes, it’s business too—and the two are tangled in ways we all have to keep learning to navigate. Thanks, Felicity. This one’s worth a slow sip.

 

1. Drinks Insider
   Felicity Carter mentions she is the founder of Drinks Insider.
   Website: https://www.drinksinsider.com

2. Areni Global
   Felicity Carter is the communications director for Areni Global, described as a fine wine think tank.
   Website: https://areni.global

3. Riedel Glassware Company
   Max Riedel, owner of Riedel, is referenced in the introduction.
   Website: https://riedel.com

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