TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a...
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Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be...
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Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of...
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Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this...
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Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of...
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DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain....
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The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and...
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Climbing Injury and Training Trends - Patrick Matros
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general...
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The Mental Game of Climbing Injuries - Arno Ilgner
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers: A history of The Rock...
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Preparation is Everything - Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance...
info_outline- DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.
- Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.
- Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.
- Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.
- Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.
- Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.
- Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.
- 00:00 Introduction and Background
- 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury
- 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers
- 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain
- 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain
- 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions
- 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain
- 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors
- 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations
- 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations
- 46:11 Returning to Climbing
- 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis
Contact Steve Smith: [email protected]
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