148: Masala, Maíz, and Movement - Ingredients for Decolonizing Plates with Norma Listman and Saqib Keval
Release Date: 04/01/2025
AnthroDish
My guest today, TW Lim, is here to explore how nation food constructions have played out in Singapore through the hawker centres the country is known for. TW writes on the relationships between politics, history, and culture and how they have shaped eating habits in Singapore. By day, he writes about technology, but he also writes about food and value, or the “regard that something is held to deserve; the importance, worth, or usefulness of something.” While known to many other countries as a “food paradise” over the last 50 years, TW unpacks how Singaporean food worth and value...
info_outlineAnthroDish
My guest this week, Peter Kuitenbrouwer, is here to share some of the ways that our relationship with maple syrup is linked to culture, religion, and land in Canada. Peter is the author of the recent book, Maple Syrup: A Short History of Canada’s Sweetest Obsession. Peter grew up on a farm in Quebec, with his career as a journalist taking him to jobs in Montreal, Ottawa, Mexico City, New York, and Toronto. Among other adventures, he covered the Oka Crisis in Quebec, crossed the Atlantic on a container ship, sailed the Great Lakes on a bulk grain carrier, and was detained by guerillas in the...
info_outlineAnthroDish
When heard about the work that chef India Doris is doing with her new restaurant, Markette, in bringing Caribbean heritage and flavours to European-style fine dining, I was delighted to have the chance to speak with her. India is the co-owner and Executive Chef at Markette, which is a modern European restaurant based in Chelsea, New York, along with The Argyle, a cocktail lounge located directly below the restaurant. This past fall, she was awarded the Young Chef Award at the 2025 Northeast Michelin ceremony. Originally from London, India has lived and cooked throughout Europe at acclaimed...
info_outlineAnthroDish
For anyone that grew up without a strong sense of connection to cooking or eating cultural foods, it can be daunting to get into the kitchen and make your own relationship with food. But for today’s guest, Jamie Tracey, that lack of relationship was enough incentive to try an honest approach to building something that would last. Jamie is a self-taught creator and Canadian cook that created Anti-Chef, a culinary experiment that plays out in real time on his YouTube series. It captures the good, bad, chaos, and triumph that comes with learning and loving to cook. With more than...
info_outlineAnthroDish
When it comes to Caribbean food, there tends to be a viewpoint that it can be a monolithic culinary experience. And particularly as those living in countries like Jamaica, Cuba, Trinidad and Tobago, Bahamas, or other Caribbean countries move in the diaspora, it necessitates a nuanced look at how culinary traditions and knowledges are shared, shifted, and expanded with new generations. My guest today, chef Leigh-Ann Martin, reminds us that there is such a rich regional diversity and abundance that needs to be explored more fully. Leigh-Ann is a trained chef, thought leader, and senior...
info_outlineAnthroDish
What does it take to make the most out of the internet when you’re building a micro or cottage bakery? My guest today, Teresa Finney, is here to explore this through her journey building At Heart Panadería. Teresa is a pastry chef and writer from the Bay Area in California, with family roots in Guadalajara, Mexico. Now based in Atlanta, Georgia, she runs At Heart Panadería, a contemporary Mexican bakery. She is also the author of Panadería: A Cookbook Zine, which contains five thoughtfully crafted original recipes from her cottage bakery. In today’s discussion, we explore how...
info_outlineAnthroDish
My guest this week, Dr. Hanna Garth, is here to speak to how food justice movements are affected by long-term misconceptions and assumptions about the communities they work with. Hanna is a sociocultural and medical anthropologist, and Assistant Professor of Anthropology at Princeton University, who studies food access and the global food system. Drawing on 15 years of research on the food justice movement in South Central Los Angeles, her second book is out now with the University of California Press. In today’s conversation, we’re discussing some of the central themes in her...
info_outlineAnthroDish
My guest this week, Stephanie Voytek, is a registered dietician here to walk through some of the key issues around nutrition and anxiety in our current social media landscape. She has with a range of experience working in the field of nutrition, from providing education to the community through food access programs, working in the fields and kitchens on farms, and counseling folks with eating disorders. Her range of work experience allows her to understand people, and find the entry point for nutrition-related behavior change in each community and individual. Her work emphasizes pleasure as...
info_outlineAnthroDish
My guest today, Sarah Oresnik, is a PhD candidate in the Department of Anthropology at McMaster University. Their research interests centre around food insecurity and its impact on our health and wellbeing. Within their PhD, their focus is on how youth navigate food insecurity, looking at youth experiences in Southampton, UK. Sarah grew up in the kitchen learning recipes from their parents and grandparents, which has translated to their continued investigations and reflections on their own food environment. In our conversation, Sarah shares about their current research working with...
info_outlineAnthroDish
Here in Canada, we have a food security crisis—and a cost-of-living crisis. While there are many, many factors that are shaping this continued issue across the country, one of the challenges of navigating food insecurity here is that we rely primarily on non-profit food banks to support those in need. One non-profit food organization in Toronto, Daily Bread, is on a mission to eliminate food insecurity and advocate for solutions to end poverty. Daily Bread prepares over 250,000 meals annually, including more than 43,000 heat-and-eat meals delivered through the Red Cross Mobile Food bank to...
info_outlineOn the show today are Norma Listman and Saqib Keval, looking at the solutions and communities that can be built when activism and ethical values are at the forefront of food creation. Norma and Saqib are the chefs and restauranteurs behind Masala y Maíz, which TIME Magazine named as one of the top destinations to visit worldwide, and its slightly more casual Indian-Mexican sister restaurant, Mari Gold. Norma and Saqib were also just featured in the most recent season of Chef’s Table on Netflix.
Masala y Maíz seamlessly blends Indian, East African, and Mexican flavours inspired by the cultures of the husband-wife team. In addition to being renowned globally for its genre-bending and deeply personal cuisine, Masala y Maíz champions a movement of social justice through food, prioritizing quality of life for their staff and farmers and serving as a testament to the idea that a values-based workplace can also be a thriving workplace.
In today’s conversation, Norma and Saqib share how they moved the idea of Masala y Maíz from a research concept into a full restaurant, even after not being so sure about staying in the industry for all its shortcomings), how experiences with local flavours on a menu can fuck with your brain and decolonize how you think about ingredients, and the importance of corn in cultural, social, and decolonial approaches to food.
Resources:
- Social Media: @masalaymaiz @normalistman @saqibkeval
- Website for Masala y Maíz
- Eastern Standard Times interview
- Book mentioned: México Between Feast and Famine: Food, Corporate Power, and Inequality by Enrique Ochoa