328: On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy with Susan Keevil
Release Date: 03/12/2025
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info_outlineHow was Brunello discovered? How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape? What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico?
In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Susan Keevil, editor of the beautiful hardcover On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy.
You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks
Giveaway
Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!
Highlights
What inspired Susan to take on the monumental task of compiling and editing On Tuscany?
How is On Tuscany different from other books about the region?
What was the most captivating wine story Susan uncovered while working on the book?
What was the most surprising insight about Tuscany that Susan discovered while putting together On Tuscany?
Why did the timeframe pose the biggest challenge in compiling the book?
How did Susan discover and select literary gems about Tuscany from historic writers?
Why was it important to Susan to write about the Etruscans?
What surprised Susan about the ancient Etruscans’ relationship with wine?
How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape?
What role did the Medici family play in shaping the wine culture in Tuscany?
What was the crisis of Chianti Classico in the 70s and 80s and how did it redefine the future of Tuscan wines?
What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico?
Why does Tuscany continue to dominate media and culture when it comes to wine?
What’s the history behind the Chianti fiasco?
Key Takeaways
How was Brunello discovered?
Susan says that from 1875 to 1930, the Biondi Santi family hid bottles of brunello bricked up behind a wall. So after the war, they had these wonderful vintages, and they could say, look how it's aged because they didn't know it aged so well at that stage. That was how the discovery of Brunello came about because they brought these cellared wines to feasts and grand occasions with politicians and monarchs.
How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape?
Susan observes that it made it beautiful to start with, because we're talking about small holdings. Small farmers gave 40% of what they produced to the owner, the feudal lord, but they had to eke out a living too. So they had their plot of vines, their plot of olive groves, and they put up their cypress trees to defend them from the winds. That gave the beauty to the countryside, because it makes it a jigsaw, it gives it texture when you look at the hills. That way of farming has set up the beauty of Tuscany that we know today. But of course, there was a lot of poverty that went alongside it.
What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico?
Susan explains that it came from the 14th century when Siena and Florence were warring as to who was going to be the most powerful of those two towns. They had an agreement that they would send out a horse rider - a knight - early one morning, and wherever those two knights met, would be the boundary between Florence and Siena. The Florentine horse rider set off really early, and they got to within 12 miles of Siena. So the black cockerel is all about strength and having the biggest area.
About Susan Keevil
Susan Keevil is the Editorial Director of Académie du Vin Library, where she has played a pivotal role in establishing and nurturing this esteemed wine publishing house. A former editor of Decanter magazine, she has dedicated her career to the world of wine, from editorial leadership to in-depth exploration of the industry.
To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/328.