#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 02/07/2023
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training...
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#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force...
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#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of...
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#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest...
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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!...
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#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and...
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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY...
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#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you...
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#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season! 2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins. 4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing...
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#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors...
info_outlineIn this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance.
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Welcome
0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.
2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance.
2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing.
5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:
- Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber...and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach.
- Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general.
- Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance.
- Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber?
6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport.
10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal?
18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal?
30:15 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport?
37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance?
40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items.
43:30 - Best best climber in the world is....
43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
44:00 - Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
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Music by Misty Murphy
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Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.