#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 02/04/2025
#134: 22 Ways to Improve Climbing Endurance and Get Less Pumped
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Think you need more endurance because your forearms get pumped? Maybe—but that may be only part of the problem. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down 22 practical ways to become a better endurance climber, spanning physiology, technique, tactics, mental control, and smarter training. You’ll learn why climbing economy matters as much as fitness, how to build a stronger aerobic engine without turning every session into a sufferfest, when and how to train anaerobic power-endurance, and why strength, pacing, footwork, breathing, resting tactics, and confidence all influence how long you can...
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#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn’t climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery. In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring,...
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#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn’t finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you’re not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing? In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We’ll explore everything...
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#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better...
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#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the...
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#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inspiring new “Weekend Crushers” feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it’s a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren’t ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply...
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#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what’s possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron’s journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it’s a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any...
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#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced,...
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#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Spring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you...
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#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...
info_outlineWelcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement.
0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD.
2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory
3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance.
6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today.
7:35 - Tips for older climbers.
10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training.
11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts.
13:00 - Scheduling your workouts.
15:45 - Specificity of training.
17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset.
19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals.
21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting.
24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment.
27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes.
29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions.
30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks.
31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers.
33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting...
36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets.
38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers.
38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries...
40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals.
41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status.
42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training).
44:45 - Developing better recovery practices.
46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing.
46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential.
48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing!
50:35 - Wrap up
50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram
51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe!
51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts
51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out!
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