The Changing Tastes of Wine: Trends, Innovation, and Restaurant Realities with Chef David Slay

I have been hanging around the South Bay beaches since my youth. Maybe you caught my Instagram posts about how that happened. As a family, we spent much of our time in Hermosa Beach; I love the SoCal beach culture.

There is an established group of restaurants under the moniker of Chef David Slay. He is a bit of an anomoly in that he has been a chef since his 20's (so well established in that sense), but at the same time, a rising star (usually an accolade for chefs just starting their career).

Our conversation was fluid and full of insights.

I have to say, sitting down with Chef David Slay for this episode of Wine Talks was a real eye-opener—and honestly, a relief in a business that’s changing faster than most of us care to admit. We met up down in Hermosa Beach, a little outside my usual zone, which always seems to lend itself to looser conversation. There’s no pretense with David; what you see is what you get, and that made for an episode full of straight talk.

We kicked things off on common ground—hot yoga, of all things. You’d think two guys from the food and wine world would bond over Burgundy or beef carpaccio, but no, it’s sweating it out in the same studio, talking about how houses and restaurants are being remodeled and how somehow, hot yoga becomes as much therapy as exercise. There’s something grounding about that, and it set the tone for the rest of our conversation.

What I appreciate about David is his clear-eyed view of the industry. He doesn’t look at the shift in wine preferences or restaurant trends with nostalgia or bitterness. Instead, he recognizes that consumer tastes have changed, and he’s made it a point to adjust right along with them. “I make wine for what the consumer wants, not for what my taste is,” he says—and you can tell he means it. That’s rare. For some in the business, adapting is an insult to tradition. For David, it’s just good sense. He describes older guests coming in with big Italians and Bordeauxs, while younger tables are ordering orange wine and lower-alcohol options. Rather than resist, he’s leaned in, updating his own winemaking and keeping his wine lists relevant.

David also spoke candidly about the business realities—shrinking wine lists, higher prices, and changing buying habits. The days of bragging about a 350-bottle inventory are gone; he’s pared it down to 150 because that’s what works now. What isn’t moving gets cut, and what sells gets the spotlight. He’s refreshingly honest about costs, average bottle prices, and even how certain cult wines just don’t have the cachet with younger drinkers anymore.

Running restaurants, building a wine brand, and surviving the post-COVID landscape takes more than passion. David’s approach—focus on quality, pay your people right, and stay involved every day—seems to be the formula. I especially respect how he talks about his crew; he’d rather pay a dishwasher above the norm and keep staff long-term than deal with constant turnover. It’s practical, but it’s also the right thing to do.

When we talked about food and wine, he’s got the same data-driven but thoughtful outlook. He doesn’t buy into the old dogma about pairings; instead, he sees the restaurant as a place where anything goes, as long as the customer has a good experience.

Honestly, it was one of those episodes that reminded me what I like about this business—the moments where you drop the sales pitch and get real about what’s working, what’s not, and what it means to stay relevant without selling out. David Slay is exactly the kind of guest that keeps me hungry for the next conversation.

1. Arthur J
   Website: https://thearthurj.com/

2. Slay Restaurants (Slay Steak & Fish House, Slay Italian Kitchen, Slay Hermosa, Fête French Bistro)
   Website: https://slayrestaurants.com/

3. Dragonette Cellars (mentioned as a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producer)
   Website: https://www.dragonettecellars.com/

4. Daou Vineyards (DAOU Family Estates)
   Website: https://daouvineyards.com/

5. Caymus Vineyards (Wagner Family of Wine)
   Website: https://www.caymus.com/

6. Silver Oak Cellars
   Website: https://www.silveroak.com/

7. Phelps Insignia (Joseph Phelps Vineyards)
   Website: https://www.josephphelps.com/

8. Wine of the Month Club
   Website: https://www.wineofthemonthclub.com/

9. Greystone (The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone)
   Website: https://www.ciachef.edu/cia-california/

10. Chez Panisse (Alice Waters’ restaurant, mentioned in context)
    Website: https://www.chezpanisse.com/

11. Moza (Osteria Mozza, Nancy Silverton)
    Website: https://www.osteriamozza.com/

12. Chateau Bailly (Château Bouscaut in Pessac-Léognan was likely meant, context: internship in Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux)
    Website: https://www.chateau-bouscaut.com/

 

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