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How big is fashion's plastic footprint?

Ecotextile Talks

Release Date: 02/18/2025

Are environmentalists to blame for cotton’s declining share of the textile fibre market? show art Are environmentalists to blame for cotton’s declining share of the textile fibre market?

Ecotextile Talks

Did environmental campaigners really contribute to a decline in cotton’s global share of fibre production?  Well, according to a rather punchy opinion piece in a couple of months ago, the answer is a resounding, yes. The article claims that environmentalists have been intellectually dishonest and fed a binary narrative of cotton bad, synthetic fibers good….which created pressure from watchdogs and investor ESG mandates…which then led to brands moving away from conventional cotton to synthetics…and as a result we are now awash with cheap synthetics clothing.  Now, this is a...

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From Goats To Garments: Textile Exchange and the Responsible Mohair Journey show art From Goats To Garments: Textile Exchange and the Responsible Mohair Journey

Ecotextile Talks

In this edition, made possible with the support of host Philip Berman is joined by its Chief Strategy Officer, Ashley Gill, and mohair farmer and textile producer Frances Van Hasselt. Frances is at the heart of mohair production in South Africa - a country that supplies more than 50% of that fiber used in the world’s textile industry. She is involved in everything from farming her family land, home to 7,000 Angora goats, to landing high-end fashion deals. Her family has also received accolades, winning the Miyuki Award 10 years in a row - a Japanese prize for the best...

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'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain show art 'Fossil fuels subsidies and polyester taxation,' with Shivam Gusain

Ecotextile Talks

While on his travels in Indonesia, our correspondent Shivam Gusain speaks to Philip Berman about his latest Ecotextile News article on decarbonising the textile industry, fossil fuel subsidies, and polyester taxation. Speaking within the current context of the volatile tariff war between the US and supply chain countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, Shivam advocates for fiscal approaches that reduce the cost of sustainable alternatives rather than excessive taxation. He emphasises the interdependence of fossil fuels and global stability, saying that removing subsidies and...

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Data: the ‘daddy’ of all issues at this week’s ZDHC event in Amsterdam show art Data: the ‘daddy’ of all issues at this week’s ZDHC event in Amsterdam

Ecotextile Talks

Fresh off a flight from the ZDHC Impact Day in The Netherlands, John Mowbray gives a quick overview of the talking points at this week’s Amsterdam event to Philip Berman for a short 'from our own correspondent' edition of Ecotextile Talks. Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts and radio shows by following us on,  and . Also, take a look at .    

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Chemical Textile Recycling Won't Help Save Fashion, Until We Learn to Fail Better show art Chemical Textile Recycling Won't Help Save Fashion, Until We Learn to Fail Better

Ecotextile Talks

In this episode of Ecotextile Talks our host, , is joined by a former innovation analyst at Fashion For Good, and now an independent consultant and writer. The conversation was inspired by his recent substack post entitled: '.' in which he argues that we should investe in 'failure', not just success, to reveal the real boundaries of textile-to-textile recycling. Drawing on his experience across industry, engineering, and business, Shivam discusses with Philip what we can learn from other industries, and challenges us to reconsider where our money, attention, and optimism are best spent....

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Beyond The Spin - What Circular Fashion Gets Wrong (And What We’re Missing) show art Beyond The Spin - What Circular Fashion Gets Wrong (And What We’re Missing)

Ecotextile Talks

In this episode host Philip Berman sits down with whose recent on circular fashion sparked lively debate across the industry.  Dr Hussain, a PhD in design innovation and MBA, is known for her critical analysis on the mainstream circular fashion narrative.  Together, they take a deep dive into the promises—and potential pitfalls—of circularity in the textile sector, with a particular focus on the influential 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and its  report. Key Topics Discussed The EMF’s $460 Billion Claim Dr Hussain questions the widely cited figure from the...

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Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey show art Beyond the Report: unpacking Lenzing's sustainability journey

Ecotextile Talks

In light of their ,  catches up with , Lenzing’s VP corporate sustainability, and , Lenzing’s global product sustainability lead, to chat about Lenzing's GHG emissions reporting, what is needed to achieve net-zero, and how Lenzing supports its customers and partners in achieving its climate goals. If you want to trace Lenzing's sustainability journey via Ecotextile Talks - do please check out our previous episodes featuring Lenzing guests: 2023 2022 2021 2020 Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on ,  and  or  here.    

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California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat show art California Dreamin' about new fashion laws with Maxine Bédat

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman talks to , Executive Director at the official sponsor of the , a new bill introduced into the California State Assembly at the start of February 2025 which, if enacted, would become the first law in the country to require brands to engage in “environmental due diligence” concerning their products and supply chains.   This Californian Bill is essentially the same as the which was introduced into the New York State legislature in 2022 - though it’s not yet law - and which is also backed by Maxine, The New Standard Institute and a broad coalition of industry folk...

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What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute show art What's the way to Net Zero? With the Apparel Impact Institute

Ecotextile Talks

What's the best way to Net Zero? In this episode of Ecotextile Talks, host explores the pathway to net zero in the textile industry with Climate Portfolio Director at the Apparel Impact Institute, and wet processing expert and Ecotextile News contributor They discuss the newly released: "" which provides guidance on how the textile industry can reach net zero by 2040, with a particular focus on electrification and renewable energy adoption in major textile manufacturing countries. Key Topics Discussed > The thermal energy challenge in textile manufacturing, where 80% of energy...

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How big is fashion's plastic footprint? show art How big is fashion's plastic footprint?

Ecotextile Talks

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of with one of its co-authors , Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and , , Santa Barbara. We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion. Other studies mentioned in the podcast:   Subscribe to Ecotextile Talks podcasts on , and or wherever you listen.  Or visit our to find out more on this issue.      

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More Episodes

Host Philip Berman discusses the findings of a groundbreaking 2024 study on the problem of plastic leakage in the textile industry with one of its co-authors Dr. Jesse Daystar, Cotton Incorporated's Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer, and Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Environmental Science and Management at the University of California, Santa Barbara.

We reveal just how significant the fashion industry's contribution to global plastic pollution is, explore potential solutions and discuss the broader implications for sustainability in fashion.

Other studies mentioned in the podcast:

The Effect of Denim Fabric as a Feedstock in Large Scale Composting of Manure/Bedding and Food Scraps

Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation

Impact of dyes and finishes on the aquatic biodegradability of cotton textile fibers and microfibers released on laundering clothes 

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Or visit our  Ecotextile News website to find out more on this issue.