343: What Is Vital About Argentina's Old Vine Malbec and Ontario Wine's Future with Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble?
Release Date: 06/25/2025
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info_outlineWhat makes old Malbec vines planted in the 1920s so rare and valuable today? Why would a Canadian winemaker head to Mendoza, Argentina, to start a winery? What’s one of the biggest challenges holding back Canadian wine and how can consumers change that?
In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Ann Sperling & Peter Gamble.
You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks
Highlights
What makes Devotion different from other On Seven wines?
What inspired Peter to look beyond Canada to Argentina for winemaking?
How did he decide on the particular vineyard to purchase?
What is massal selection in viticulture?
How did Versado end up with such old vines, and how does this show up in the wine?
Are there aspects of Malbec that are similar to Pinot?
How have Ann and Peter revitalized the Leily Winery?
What are the differences and similarities between Leily and On Seven Chardonnays?
What would Ann and Peter like their legacies to be in the Canadian wine industry?
What are the greatest threats to the Canadian wine industry?
Which three figures in the wine industry would Peter invite to a dream dinner party?
Key Takeaways
In the 1905 to 1925 period in Argentina, winemakers at the time planted the greatest genetic diversity amongst the Malbec vines, because they were still learning about it. Their Versado vineyard reflects that time when genetic diversity was appreciated.
We visited a lot of wine regions in the world for the meetings, both fun and a necessity, and one of them was Mendoza and loved the climate - a really interesting climate from the point of view of creating flavors and grapes, and really liked the lifestyle as well. We essentially decided it'd be interesting to do something small there that also gives us a second harvest during New Year's. So we can practice twice as often. That was the driver, the potential quality there.
They’ve been talking about this for probably the 40 years that they've been making wine and and they want to figure out how to have lasting consumer engagement. They have a lot of devoted buyers, but they also know kind of the monopoly culture is that, well, if the wine you were looking for today isn't on the shelf, you can buy something else. Promoting the message of buying directly from the wineries, and if you want to try that wine that's made in Nova Scotia or BC, that you actually can order it and have it shipped to your home province. Those interprovincial trade barriers aren't real. There's lots of wine shipping that's taking place already. Just get on your computer like you do with so many other products that you buy and buy online.
About Ann Sperling & Peter Gamble
Often referred to as the “power couple” of the Canadian wine industry, Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling have long pursued the pinnacles of wine quality in Canadian vineyards and wineries. Following her upbringing on her family’s Okanagan Valley vineyard, Ann turned to the soil for the character and complexity of her wines. Acknowledged as a Canadian pioneer of organic and biodynamic viticulture, ‘terroir’ was at the centre of her philosophy and she is renowned for her head winemaking roles at Malivoire, Southbrook, and Sperling Vineyards. Peter, a lifetime wine industry professional, has worked alongside Canada’s most passionate winemakers to achieve greater heights with our finest appellation wines. Since 2000, Peter has provided expertise in ultra-premium winemaking operations, including: Stratus, Ravine, Benjamin Bridge and Lightfoot & Wolfville. With the purchase of a top-flight ancient Malbec planting in Mendoza, Argentina, in 2008, Ann and Peter broadened their winemaking activities, but Niagara remains their cherished home base. Current focus is on these Niagara projects: On Seven, Lailey and Stonebridge Vineyards and Dobbin Estate.
To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/343.