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#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Release Date: 08/08/2024

#113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up! show art #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this...

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#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham show art #112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 -...

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#111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025! show art #111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025? In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet! Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Eric's greetings... 0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond. 3:38 -  Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged in important activities. 10:33 - Upgrade #2: Level-up your...

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#110: Join My #110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025)

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching...

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#109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!) show art #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!)

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and...

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#108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! show art #108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and...

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#107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!) show art #107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!)

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game. The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental! While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to...

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#106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance show art #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting.  2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit  the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code:  (North America only). Europe and...

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#105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends show art #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit  the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code:  (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit  or  to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on  Thank...

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#104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids show art #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever! This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code:  (North America only). Europe and...

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More Episodes

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.

We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics: 

  • What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season

  • How to carry a project over from one season to the next

  • The secret to being a successful route climber

  • Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training

  • The science of building route fitness

  • Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La SportivaMaxim RopesDMM ClimbingFriction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

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Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.