#116: Climb Better TODAY! 15 In-Season Tips to Level Up Now!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 06/10/2025
#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better...
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#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the...
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#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inspiring new “Weekend Crushers” feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it’s a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren’t ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply...
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#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what’s possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron’s journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it’s a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any...
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#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced,...
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#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Spring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you...
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#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...
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#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
If there’s one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I’m genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I’ve learned, refined, and applied over the past 30 years. I believe you’ll find it thought-provoking and impactful—and for some listeners, it may even prove life-changing. To mark the new year, I’ve intentionally broadened the scope of this episode beyond climbing-specific training...to explore human performance, mindset, values, and intentional living. For this month, think of it as a true training for life podcast. At the...
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#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement. Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery...
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#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history “shake up the box” with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized,...
info_outlineCoach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season.
Performance gains aren’t made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there’s a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing.
Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season!
RUNDOWN
0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance.
2:20 – Tip #1: Know the context of your current training and climbing—and act accordingly.
5:08 – Tip #2: Dial in your warm-up to match the demands of your project. (Not all warm-ups are created equal!)
8:40 – Tip #3: Time your sends by planning around temperature trends and sun exposure.
10:35 – Tip #4: Build confidence by climbing routes that match your natural style.
12:35 – Tip #5: Occasionally work "anti-style" routes to promote long-term growth and mastery.
15:35 – Tip #6: Always bring two pairs of shoes: a comfortable pair for warming up and a performance pair for sending.
18:20 – Tip #7: Prioritize movement efficiency when projecting. Climb smart with the strength and skills you have today.
24:15 – Tip #8: Focus on making a few high-quality efforts per session—not just maxing out your goes.
27:55 – Tip #9: Recover faster between attempts with active recovery techniques.
31:28 – Tip #10: Don’t climb to exhaustion. End your session before mental and physical fatigue sabotages your efforts—and recovery.
📢 Commercial Break: Why top doctors and PTs recommend daily collagen supplementation for athletes.
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41:50 – Tip #11: Fuel appropriately for the day’s climbing. Stable blood glucose = steady performance.
47:20 – Tip #12: Refuel quickly post-session: 20g protein + some carbs within 30 minutes. Follow up with a healthy meal within 2–3 hours.
50:32 – Tip #13: One beer max (zero is ideal) to avoid impairing recovery.
52:32 – Tip #14: Do some light stretching or foam rolling in the evening to aid recovery and sleep.
54:30 – Tip #15: Have a 20–40g protein shake about 30 minutes before bed to support overnight muscle repair and growth.
57:40 – BONUS TIP!: Learn how to outperform the masses by doing what most climbers won’t.
1:01:57 – Wrap-up: Final thoughts, resources, and how to connect.
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