Libsyn Directory

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Release Date: 04/07/2026

#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn’t climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery. In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring,...

#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn’t finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you’re not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing? In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We’ll explore everything...

#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better...

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the...

#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this inspiring new “Weekend Crushers” feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it’s a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren’t ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply...

#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what’s possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron’s journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it’s a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any...

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced,...

#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Spring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you...

#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...

#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

If there’s one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I’m genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I’ve learned, refined, and applied over the past 30 years. I believe you’ll find it thought-provoking and impactful—and for some listeners, it may even prove life-changing. To mark the new year, I’ve intentionally broadened the scope of this episode beyond climbing-specific training...to explore human performance, mindset, values, and intentional living. For this month, think of it as a true training for life podcast. At the...

More Episodes

In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced, and mentally demanding game than climbing indoors.

Eric introduces a powerful framework for understanding this transition and delivers five actionable strategies to help you quickly regain movement efficiency, sharpen your mental game, and unlock your true performance potential outside. If you want to turn your winter training gains into real sends this season, this is a must-listen episode.

⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps

[0:15] Intro + The Spring Reality Check

[2:20] The Big Truth: Strength ≠ Performance (Yet)

[4:00] Gym vs. Outdoor Climbing—Critical Differences

[7:40] The Real Limiter: Inefficiency

Podcast Sponsors

Thank you to La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!

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🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies

[12:30] Strategy #1: Treat Early Sessions as Pre-Season

[15:05] Strategy #2: Prioritize Volume Over Difficulty

[17:00] Strategy #3: Reframe Projecting Early Season

[20:45] Strategy #4: Rebuild Technical & Mental Skills

[25:28] Strategy #5: Be Patient—Trust the Process

⚠️ Important Considerations

[28:20] Injury Risk During Transition

🧠 Wrap-Up

[32:30] Final Takeaways

Efficiency is the gateway to performance
Build volume, refine movement, stay patient
Your strength is there—unlock it on the rock

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Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!

Podcast Sponsors

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Thank you! La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes

Connect with Eric Hörst

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⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps

Podcast Sponsors

🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies

⚠️ Important Considerations

🧠 Wrap-Up

Podcast Sponsors

Connect with Eric Hörst

Music by Misty Murphy

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