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#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Release Date: 02/05/2026

#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...

#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

If there’s one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I’m genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I’ve learned, refined, and applied over the past 30 years. I believe you’ll find it thought-provoking and impactful—and for some listeners, it may even prove life-changing. To mark the new year, I’ve intentionally broadened the scope of this episode beyond climbing-specific training...to explore human performance, mindset, values, and intentional living. For this month, think of it as a true training for life podcast. At the...

#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement. Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery...

#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history “shake up the box” with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized,...

#121 - Connective Tissue Training for Strength, Resilience, and Performance

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren’t enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly depends just as much on the health of connective tissues—tendons, ligaments, and the extracellular matrix (ECM)—as on muscle strength itself. Yet, these vital tissues have long been misunderstood as relatively static and untrainable. The latest research proves otherwise: tendons and ligaments are remarkably adaptive, capable of remodeling and strengthening in response to targeted loading and proper nutrition. The white paper presented in this...

#120 - Conquer the Pump! Training and Tactics to Climb Your Best at the Red River Gorge (and elsewhere)

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

If you’re a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We’ve assembled a “Red River Pump” roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love. Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to “protect the send.” This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb...

#119 - 5 Powerful Lessons from Emily Harrington's "Girl Climber" Movie

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harrington’s incredible, multi-year journey to free-climb El Capitan’s Golden Gate route in under 24 hours. For me, this isn’t just a film about climbing—it’s about resilience, will power, and the triumph of human spirit, Furthermore, it serves as a bold reminder of what it takes to stay committed to a dream in the face of fear, doubt, setbacks, and even failure. As Emily’s journey shows, greatness isn’t built on talent alone. It comes from...

#118 - Wes Schweitzer - Training to Boulder V10 (Pro Football Player Turned Climber!)

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, slopers, and steep boulders! In this inspiring conversation, Wes shares how climbing started as elbow rehab modality, turned into a passion, and even improved his football performance. We dive into the parallels between elite football and high-level climbing, his challenges with a variety of football-related injuries, and his bold goal: to become the heaviest climber ever to send V10. Along the way, Wes reflects on career highlights—Super Bowl...

#117: Manage Fear Like A Pro - 18 Tips for Winning the Climbing Head Games!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel torturous—and even paralyzing. To climb efficiently and confidently—and to pursue your peak performance—you must learn to assess and manage fear effectively. In this 90-minute episode, Coach Hörst delivers a tour de force of 18 fear management techniques designed to help you unlock a new level of mental mastery. These practical strategies will empower you to perform at your best on boulders, at the crag, and in everyday life. (Because...

#116: Climb Better TODAY! 15 In-Season Tips to Level Up Now!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season. Performance gains aren’t made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there’s a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing. Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season! RUNDOWN 0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance. 2:20 – Tip #1:...

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Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it.

Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting ultra-processed foods, choosing whole-food carbohydrate sources, and matching carbohydrate intake to activity level.

The episode concludes by emphasizing individualized nutrition, performance context, and consistency over perfection. Jonathan also provides some breakfast and dinner tips for climbers looking to optimize energy availability, performance, and recovery.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - Intro to New Food Pyramid

1:00 - About today's expert, Jonathan Hörst, from Department of Nutritional Science at the University of Utah.

2:20 - Seismic changes to the USDA food guideline for Americans

6:00 - Guidelines catching up to modern nutritional science

9:35 - Inverting the old food pyramid

11:40 - 6 major changes to the nutritional guidelines for health and disease prevention

12:00 - #1 Prioritize protein

16:15 - #2: Added Sugar Gets a Hard Line

19:15 - #3: Whole Grains Yes — Refined Carbs No

Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx

21:35 - #4: Lower-Carbohydrate Diets Are Acknowledged

25:35 - #5: Ultra-Processed Foods Are Explicitly Called Out

31:50 - #6: A More Nuanced Approach to Fat Intake

37:30 - Key takeaways & actionable items for climbers

40:00 - Examples of healthy, effective fueling at breakfast and dinner

47:00 - Jonathan's current training and climbing goals

49:40 - Contact Jonathan vis DM on Instagram: @jonathan_horst

49:55 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

50:30 - Hörst out!

A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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