#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 03/10/2026
#134: 22 Ways to Improve Climbing Endurance and Get Less Pumped
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Think you need more endurance because your forearms get pumped? Maybe—but that may be only part of the problem. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down 22 practical ways to become a better endurance climber, spanning physiology, technique, tactics, mental control, and smarter training. You’ll learn why climbing economy matters as much as fitness, how to build a stronger aerobic engine without turning every session into a sufferfest, when and how to train anaerobic power-endurance, and why strength, pacing, footwork, breathing, resting tactics, and confidence all influence how long you can...
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#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn’t climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery. In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring,...
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#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn’t finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you’re not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing? In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We’ll explore everything...
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#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better...
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#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the...
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#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inspiring new “Weekend Crushers” feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it’s a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren’t ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply...
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#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what’s possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron’s journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it’s a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any...
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#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced,...
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#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Spring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you...
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#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...
info_outlineSpring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season.
While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose.
Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you may find yourself climbing with more confidence, better focus, and improved results this season.
Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Key Takeaways from This Episode
1. Separate Outcomes from Identity
Results are feedback—not a judgment of your worth. Treat success and failure like a scientist treats data: information that helps guide your next attempt.
2. Care Deeply, But Stay Detached
Commit fully to preparation and effort, but let go of rigid expectations. Peak performance happens when you care—but remain mentally loose.
3. Widen Your Perspective
Fear narrows perception. When frustration or anxiety creeps in, step back and consider the bigger picture of your climbing journey.
4. Recognize Self-Sabotage
Many self-defeating behaviors stem from fear of failure. Notice the pattern and commit fully—remove the escape routes.
5. Design Your Environment
Your surroundings influence behavior more than willpower. Set up your environment so good choices become automatic.
6. Build Confidence with Evidence
Confidence comes from past effort and experience. Remember the training sessions, challenges, and setbacks you’ve already overcome.
7. Stay Calm Under Pressure
True toughness is the ability to make clear decisions when stress rises. Pause, breathe, and choose the next smart action.
8. Align Effort with Purpose
Grinding through pain isn’t always productive. Growth comes from intentional stress followed by proper recovery.
9. Pursue Mastery, Not Just Metrics
Grades and performance numbers are useful indicators—but mastery of movement, skill, and understanding is the real long-term goal.
10. Break Plateaus with Novelty
When progress stalls, change something. Train in a new place, climb with new partners, or modify your routine to spark fresh momentum.
11. Choose Tradeoffs Intentionally
You can’t do everything at once. Decide what matters most this season and accept the tradeoffs required to pursue it.
12. Consistency Beats Intensity
Big breakthroughs rarely come from a single heroic effort. Progress is built through consistent, focused sessions over time.
13. Use Checkpoints
Break large goals into smaller, achievable steps. Mini-goals provide feedback, motivation, and a sense of progress.
14. Find the Performance Sweet Spot
The best training happens just beyond comfort—but short of overwhelm. When challenge and skill align, the flow state emerges.
15. Recovery Completes the Cycle
Stress only drives adaptation when it’s followed by recovery. Prioritize sleep, nutrition, rest days, and periodic deloads.
Final Thoughts
Climbing your best isn’t just about strong fingers or hours spent training. It’s about bringing together physical preparation, mental resilience, and strategic decision-making.
The tips in this episode are simple—but powerful when practiced consistently. Show up prepared, stay curious, remain patient with the process, and keep refining your approach. Over time, those small improvements compound—and the sends will come.
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Podcast Sponsor
Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
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