#120 - Conquer the Pump! Training and Tactics to Climb Your Best at the Red River Gorge (and elsewhere)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Release Date: 10/08/2025
#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better...
info_outline
#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the...
info_outline
#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inspiring new “Weekend Crushers” feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it’s a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren’t ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply...
info_outline
#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what’s possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron’s journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it’s a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any...
info_outline
#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn’t guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced,...
info_outline
#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Spring climbing season is here—and it’s time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you...
info_outline
#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a “flipped” or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting...
info_outline
#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
If there’s one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I’m genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I’ve learned, refined, and applied over the past 30 years. I believe you’ll find it thought-provoking and impactful—and for some listeners, it may even prove life-changing. To mark the new year, I’ve intentionally broadened the scope of this episode beyond climbing-specific training...to explore human performance, mindset, values, and intentional living. For this month, think of it as a true training for life podcast. At the...
info_outline
#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement. Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery...
info_outline
#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history “shake up the box” with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized,...
info_outlineIf you’re a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We’ve assembled a “Red River Pump” roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love.
Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to “protect the send.”
This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb stronger, last longer, and send harder on any endurance-style route.
Podcast Rundown
0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast
1:05 - Overview of the training and tactical topics covered in this episode. Listen to the full two-hour conversation of ALL things RRG at The Struggle Podcast >>
🎧 Podcast Sponsor: Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15
4:20 - Introducing the Red River Pump Roundtable!
4:45 - [KH] General training prep in the weeks ahead of a trip to the RRG.
8:32 - [EH] The secret(s) to dominating on steep, pumpy routes.
10:30 - The importance of becoming a more aerobic-powered climber.
17:40 - [EH] Energy system training and the short- and long-term adaptations to climbing-specific aerobic training. And learn why doing a moderate amount of running can support your route-climbing performance.
21:30 - Learning to climb through the pump
25:10 - [KH] Tips for easing into an extended trip to the Red.
28:30 - [EH] Tactical tips for performing your best.
32:20 - [RD] Nutritional support of climbing performance and recovery between days of climbing.
34:00 - [EH] The benefits of SENDURE-X, a climber's pre-workout/performance drink that boosts circulation, endurance, and recovery ability.
36:08 - [RD] The value of the "low point" projecting tactic.
37:45 - [KH] "Protecting the send"
39:20 - [EH] Over-learning (practicing) the "anchor run"
41:00 - [RD] Low pointing defined.
42:10 - Final comments, and where to find more free training information.
43:00 - Wrap-Up and request to PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW! Pease share this podcast on your socials and/or with your friends!
🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15